Terra Glass Comments on W/C

Started by CelticGlass, June 29, 2007, 09:54:37 AM

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CelticGlass

Well done Claire - you seem to have pressed all the right buttons this time...and long may it continue  8)

xtweeksx


Billie

You've been busy!!!  Gorgeous work  ;D

*rowanberry*

Claire

Billie

Claire, I'm going to follow your advice and see if I can get some post-kiln beads with colours that good  8) 8)

*rowanberry*

i found also that letting it cool a LOT before striking also helps, dont strike it until it gets really dark on the first cool.

I did this with 10x14mm beads though - I have had far more success with the terror of terra on smaller beads
Claire

xtweeksx

Thanks Peeps  ;D

Errmmm strike? You have to strike this stuff?? ???

Its strange stuff tho init? Sometimes its goes really bright and oil slick looking, others those lovely subtle colours.or olive, I love the cripsy browns/oranges/yellows and olive colours ;D

Carol

Those are gorgeous beads Jen, you terra tamer you..... ;D
Carol

*rowanberry*

Quote from: xtweeksx on July 07, 2007, 12:30:20 PM
Errmmm strike? You have to strike this stuff?? ???

Yup!
what it says on their website:
"Unlike previous Double Helix colors Terra does not require a reduction flame to strike.  Instead work hot (till clear) cool, and reheat.  Colors vary depending on heat treatment.  Cooler working yields creams,tans and browns.  Hotter working yeilds purples, blues, and greens.  For best results, use Terra with clear, work hot, cool, and reheat. "

and I found that the greater difference in heat between the heating and cooling (ie get REALLY hot, and get REALLY cold) yielded the nicer jewel colours for me. and the tip with when to put it in the kiln...
Claire

xtweeksx

Quote from: *rowanberry* on July 07, 2007, 01:00:28 PM
Quote from: xtweeksx on July 07, 2007, 12:30:20 PM
Errmmm strike? You have to strike this stuff?? ???

Yup!
what it says on their website:
"Unlike previous Double Helix colors Terra does not require a reduction flame to strike.  Instead work hot (till clear) cool, and reheat.  Colors vary depending on heat treatment.  Cooler working yields creams,tans and browns.  Hotter working yeilds purples, blues, and greens.  For best results, use Terra with clear, work hot, cool, and reheat. "

and I found that the greater difference in heat between the heating and cooling (ie get REALLY hot, and get REALLY cold) yielded the nicer jewel colours for me. and the tip with when to put it in the kiln...

Thanks for that.......... I didnt think to check the website for tips n tricks!!  :) :) :)

I made a good few with clear and every single one cracked......... wonder why? Anybody else had those problems with clear?

Mary

Are you using Lauscha? DH supposedly doesn't like it, something to do with the amount of silver, and the stiffness of Lauscha. I've had some good results using Lauscha, and some not so good, depending on the shape.

Billie

All my encased ones have cracked.  I think Q mentioned under another terra thread about once the bead is encased, to get the entire thing hot right through to the core... but I may be wrong  :D

glassworks

they (jed and julie from doublehelix) specifically recommend NOT encasing with lauscha ever... only vetro or second best effetre...

i DO encase with lauscha but i get the whole bead really HOT through all the way when i do...

;)

*rowanberry*

when i did mine on top of clear I used vetrofond (I only keep my lauscha for special occasions!). No cracks.

If working on top of clear I found that encase the clear with terra VERY thinly for the best results! I got some deep deep jewel colours from it doing that yesterday.
Claire

♥♥Tan♥♥

Look.....Terra hates me....Heather sent me some to try...and it hated me then and it positively despises me now...I can sing to it..encase it...heat it...lurve it up...NOTHING...so, stop being so bloody cheerful about it because its a spiteful glass that takes pleasure in other peoples pain.

I even think its on the FBI's top ten most wanted list. >:(