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Author Topic: SC2 schedule for fused frit pendants  (Read 8981 times)
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welchy
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« Reply #15 on: January 14, 2009, 08:48:54 PM »

I always use an oil free cutter - I wash all the sheets of glass I buy in hot soapy water then dry and store in its plastic bag that they get delivered in. I like to wash my hands before I start cutting and also wash my cutting mat. The best way I have found to break glass once I have scored it is to use  warm glass's small metal cutting pliers to assist the break

 http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/Shop/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=285

I have never used a mould but they look like fun, I have used lots of different types of frit though, I like to fuse it onto a glass base and make lots of frit blends to get different effects


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sea-thistle
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« Reply #16 on: January 16, 2009, 04:51:42 PM »

I'm only cutting small pieces of glass and use the plastic running pliers, which I also use for my Stained Glass work. Touch wood I have not what I would say really cut myself. I also keep all my glass in the plastic bags they came in not only because it keeps the Dichroic glass protected, but also you know what colour you are using, providing you put the correct glass back in the correct bag!lol I also wash the glass before and after cutting, to remove any oil or grease, or finger prints. It is a bit of a hinderence having to wear gloves to cut the glass, but I cope very well. It's better than having fingers that I can't use because they are so painful to bend and bleed.I bought an oil free cutter and could not get on with it at all. Each to their own.lol
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karnege
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« Reply #17 on: January 31, 2009, 12:06:17 PM »

Hi,

I've been fusing glass for two weeks so I am still learning to crawl.  I have tried the tutorial and also have a SC2.  The results where not what I expected and I'm not sure what went wrong. The clear layer of frits power ended up a frosty white colour which covered the base layer apart from the very edges where you could make out the dichroic glass.  What have I done wrong.  I fired slowly up to 810C and soaked for 20 mins.  Have I gone to hot, or not hot enough.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Simon
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Hels4444
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« Reply #18 on: January 31, 2009, 12:14:43 PM »

You are all so brave I gave up on the glass cutting and fusing, my hands were in shreds and I was totally useless!!!!  It really stressed me out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!    lol
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sea-thistle
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« Reply #19 on: January 31, 2009, 12:23:36 PM »

Hi Simon It's difficult to tell really what's gone wrong, can you possibly put a photo  of what you made on here for us all to look at? It's very difficult to guess from the description.  Sad
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bluefairy
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« Reply #20 on: January 31, 2009, 12:28:19 PM »

Hello, what glass were you using? Wonder if that would make a difference?  Also, I haven't got an SC2, but 20 mins hold sounds like quite a long time, my kiln's quite a bit bigger and still only soaks at 795 for 10 mins for a full fuse (like I said though, i don't know anything about SC2's so could be completely wrong!!)
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bluefairy
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« Reply #21 on: January 31, 2009, 12:29:59 PM »

Ooh, and did you cool as quickly as possible to the annealing point (usually 516C), as cooling too slowly can cause devitrification, which has a kind of cloudy scummy,appearance
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Helen xx

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Zeldazog
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« Reply #22 on: January 31, 2009, 12:44:14 PM »

Hi,

I've been fusing glass for two weeks so I am still learning to crawl.  I have tried the tutorial and also have a SC2.  The results where not what I expected and I'm not sure what went wrong. The clear layer of frits power ended up a frosty white colour which covered the base layer apart from the very edges where you could make out the dichroic glass.  What have I done wrong.  I fired slowly up to 810C and soaked for 20 mins.  Have I gone to hot, or not hot enough.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Simon


Simon

What glass did you use?  I fuse Bullseye and I usually use 804 for full fuse now, depending on what I am doing a soak of 10-20 minutes so your schedule doesn't look too far out to me, Bullseye actually say 815, but that seems too hot for my kiln -

All kilns fire different, so you will find it takes a few goes to find the right temperature for your own SC2 as even the same model will vary.

Also, was the frit definitely clear?  Some of the whites are strikers so they start off clear but go cloudy - as do some colours.

As Bluefairy says, it could be divitrification, but is a solid frosty white, and is it shiny, or is it patchy and scummy?

As Seathistle suggests, post a pic and confirm what glass you used for both base and top lets see if we can suss it out!





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sea-thistle
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« Reply #23 on: January 31, 2009, 12:53:28 PM »

I use Bullseye mostly but some Uroboros as well. Everyones kilns are different as has been said, mine I have to have up to 880!! I kid you not!! for the full fuse Huh. Mine is an SC2 kiln as well!! Had no problems with the above glass at that temp. Smiley
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karnege
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« Reply #24 on: January 31, 2009, 12:57:02 PM »

Thanks for your speedy replies.

the schedule was

200 - 677C - 30 mins
200 - 810C - 20 mins
Full - 516C - 30 mins
83  - 371C - 00 mins
Full - 38C -  00 mins 

The surface of the pendant is very smooth but the cloudyness seems to be in the clear frits powder.

Used bulls eye frits powder

« Last Edit: January 31, 2009, 01:45:30 PM by karnege » Logged
Zeldazog
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« Reply #25 on: January 31, 2009, 01:55:50 PM »

Well Simon, got me stumped!

Certainly doesn't look like devitrification to me.

Is it definitely clear frit?  Where did you get it from?  Could bags and labels have got mixed up?


I know from enamelling that powders have to be rinsed through, as they tend to cloud otherwise, But I don't recall having a problem myself with clear powder going cloudy - then again, I used it mixed with other large lumps of frit, and I can't remember the outcome anyway.

I've never used it to put a clear cap on something.

My only suggestion would be do do a test fire with your clear frit only, basically a small heap on a kiln shelf to see if that does the same - I can't really see it, but its vaguely possible it is some reaction with the dichroic (but again, never had a problem with clear sheet).

Tis a shame.

You could try posting onto the Bullseye UK forum, I know that there are Tech bods from Bullseye glass itself that lurk and post, so maybe they can identify what happened.

http://bullseyeglassuk.co.uk/forum/

Dawn
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karnege
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« Reply #26 on: January 31, 2009, 02:36:06 PM »

Hi,

many thanks for the info.  The glass is labled as clear but who knows, I got it from the creative glass guild online.  I will try the bullseye forum, and also I'll try firing it to a higher temperature as previously suggested.  I will post the results tomorrow .

many thanks to all

Simon
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sea-thistle
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« Reply #27 on: January 31, 2009, 02:54:08 PM »

Hi simon The pendant looks like opaque glass with Dichroic glowing through it. I have only used opaque glass with dichroic then a clear glass on top . perhaps try and fuse a heap of the frit to see what happens Huh
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Soozintheshed
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« Reply #28 on: February 01, 2009, 05:25:30 AM »

I fire my SC2 for fusing at 820, but my Hobbyfuser is about 770.
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karnege
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« Reply #29 on: February 01, 2009, 06:24:48 AM »

Hi,

What schedule do you use with your SC2.  Tried it again last night at a higher temp still no luck.

Simon
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