SC2 schedule for fused frit pendants

Started by theseahorse, January 03, 2009, 10:30:49 AM

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Zeldazog

Simon, what else have you fused in your SC2?

To me, the actual fusing looked about right - nicely soft round edges, so more than tack fused, but not SO hot that it has blobbed and needled.

If you've successfully fused other glasses at that schedule, then it's looking more like the glass than the kiln firing.


You'll find that most people who are saying they fuse at different temperatures ALWAYS use those, or thereabouts, no matter what glass - so unless you have had problems with other glasses not firing correctly, then I would look elsewhere for your problem.

My schedule (Skutt Hot Start) only generally alters if I am doing something thicker or thinner, so need to adjust firing for this, or something large so need to ramp slower, or something that might trap air so need a looooong bubble soak.

Yes, there is a difference between say, where a black glass softens to where a white glass softens, but clear turning white?  Still sounds like the glass to me.

If you're still convinced its the firing and not the glass, you could always post me a small amount and I could drop it in with my next load - and if nothing else goes odd, then it will identify whether it is in fact the glass or the kiln.




dinah46

When I get new frit I always do a test fuse to provide a colour chart for future use.  I just take a small amount of clear glass, tekta for BE, and add small heaps of each frit and do a normal fuse. I find this really useful and worth the extra time.

Zeldazog

Good advice there, Diane, I must do that with my frits sometime - I am not very organised that way (although I did do it with some seed beads I'd bought, as some changed and others didn't - but I have NO idea where the sample is now......!)

karnege

Hi,

cheers Zeldazog and co.  Everything else we have fired in the kiln has worked out surprising well, just this mould casting which has put a dampner on our good results.  I have emailed Creative Glass Guild where I purchased the clear frits powder from to see if they have any suggestions.  For now we are going to try some tack fusing.  My girlfriend and I are both trying to learn glass fusing.

cheers

Simon

Mars

Although this is an old topic I though it worth asking on here rather than start a new topic... everything I've fused/slumped so far has worked on the recommended schedules.

I bought the nano bead mould and used the recommended schedule for Bullseye and medium frit (ramp, temps and soaks) and got crunchy beads (ish, calling them a bead is a stretch) that were a disaster, although they did come out of the mould they looked nothing like the video lol!

Has anyone used the nano bead mould to good effect?  If so can you share the schedule with me?

Cheers!
Mars xx

flame n fuse

I've never tried this (and interesting to read an old thread! - one of the advantages of the forum compared with FB). According to Bullseye tech notes heat and glass, 760C is at the top end of tack fusing temperatures. As you want your glass to go smoother  than that, maybe try 780C instead, which is into full fusing temps?
Maybe someone with more experience of this mould will come along.
Julia

Zeldazog

Quote from: Mars on March 08, 2016, 10:01:02 PM
I bought the nano bead mould and used the recommended schedule for Bullseye and medium frit (ramp, temps and soaks)

Might be helpful to provide that schedule  ;D ;)

Mars

On the train to London at the moment but will stick it up when I get home tonight with links/more details :)

Agreed Re forum, as much as I adore FB for chatting and selling. I prefer the forum for knowledge and help... Only been here a short while but it's invaluable!

Mars xx



Fluffstar

My nano bead mould is in two halves... says something about my luck with it!!

I fired it early on when I wasn't programming my own schedules, and I think I just used the built-in 'fast full' program on the Skutt - (see http://www.skutt.com/pdf/HotStart/HotStartManual_PR.pd- page 32 - it's in F but you get the basic idea).   I guess the reason it doesn't ask you to go to anywhere near 800 is because the cross section of the glass part of the finished bead is less than 6mm across?  So maybe if you held it for a long time at 800 you'd end up with blobs not rings?

I had the most luck when using the Colour de Verre pendant moulds, and my button moulds, when I held at full fuse (795) for 20 mins or so, but they're bigger, and sometimes the glass still pulled apart at the top if I didn't make an effort to put more glass at the top where the 'bail' was.

Hope that helps =)

I love Frit Happens.  It was so invaluable to me at the beginning, I try to contribute and give something back now! =)
Kathy

Mars

Quote from: flame n fuse on March 09, 2016, 02:37:58 PM
I assumed the schedule was this one http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/images/pdfs/products/Nano%20bead%20instructions.pdf
:)

That's the one, I dutifully took it up to 770 as I was using Bullseye Frit and held for 20 mins as it was medium frit - I'd mixed dark purple with clear as suggested for darker colours and I ended up with little mishapen rice crispy cakes made from glass ;D

The mould says not to take it above, I think, 785... so I'm thinking - switch to fine frit... take it up a bit in temp and/or longer soak?

I also have the oval pendant mould which I'm hoping will fare better as they are larger... but it's my first time with detailed moulds rather than just a basic slumping mould!

Mars xx

Mars

Quote from: Fluffstar on March 09, 2016, 02:50:48 PM
My nano bead mould is in two halves... says something about my luck with it!!


Thanks, I'm glad the mould is still in one piece then :)  I think I'm going to use my glass rice crispies to decorate a coaster and slump it into a dish and see what that comes out like... who knows... it could be a new thing where I deliberately make many new rice crispies :)

Mars xx

flame n fuse

TBH I don't know. I recall other threads which had difficulty with these moulds. I think I'd try 5 degrees higher and a longer soak, but it's a total guess, or maybe the same temp and a longer soak. Can you peek into your kiln to see what's happening? You're fighting surface tension, which will change 2 rough bits of glass on top of each other into a nice roundy blob, vs getting something to take the form of the mould. How tightly you pack the frit in must have something to do with it as well (thinking of the behaviour of pate de verre).

Moira HFG

I love the sound of your purple rice crispies! You really should enter those for the Turner prize.  :)

I think you'd find fine frit easier to work with. It compacts down better so the heat has less work to do. With medium frit you're moving away from Pate de verre and towards kiln casting, which is tricky on such a small scale - though I'm sure perfectly possible if you're prepared to spend time finding the right combination of heat and holding time.

You can mix medium and fine. The fine will fill in the gaps between the medium lumps. Tamp it down well.