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Reichenbach Silver Brown

Started by Pixiedebs, July 24, 2009, 09:01:36 AM

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squirsygirl

Quote from: fionaess on July 24, 2009, 04:39:32 PM
But dont use Rubino  ;D

I've used it with rubino, and got some beautiful yrllows and creams - all whispy and mist like.  Unfortunately, I sold the bead almost immediately, I'll make another tommorow and post when I can.

But in the meantime:

Make a tiny tube of rubino, let it cool, don't strike,

Spiral a stringer of RSB, melt in,

I then used a clear stringer ( vetro) and swirled.

Cool slightly.

Now strike and or reduce lightly.

Encase.

Have a go, I loved mine.

Kirsty

Annelyse

I don't work on a hot head so I cannot tell for sure but 20-30 seconds for reduction seems a very long time to me.
Usually, I count to 5 while reducing most glasses (at the top of the flame).

You should maybe try without reduction first because the normal hot head flame is reducing already and then work you way up from there a few seconds at a time and see what you get. Keep the same colour as a base, cobalt blue is a good one because it is not likely to react and then try other base colours once you have the reduction sorted out.

cwest

I can't get this glass to work either. Getting very frustrated. For the last week I have been using a minor torch and that hasn't made any difference. To reduce this glass is it best to increase the propane, or reduce the oxygen, or doesn't it matter?

Carolyn

Trudi

I've used bases- ink blue,clear,and a bright trans blue-(040?)

But it may be the batch you have some are clear and some are brown -they couldbe at different stages of striking cycle??? (that's me guessing)

Normally I don't reduce much - but for this glass following Anouk's tips I did reduce more- but I twirl it lightly through a reduction flame a few times - this way it's getting the reduction but no heat.

I get my base- trail some SB- then heat sections and rake it up
melt flat

reduce

encase

over bright blue


over ink blue



over pale emerald


lampworklover

I did it! I got colour on my HH!

I used Effetre Mid Amber as a base, added the SB and swirled/ poked  it around; (that's how you get the different colours), . I reduced it a bit, then cased in clear. The ones where I didn't fiddle about with the SB , it went that sort of khaki green; but the ones where I twisted and pulled it about, I got loads of swirls of different colour, including purple.

They're in the kiln now, but I leave for holiday in 6 hours, so I can't show you until I get back; but trust me, it does work!

Pixiedebs

#20
Trudi,

I now have major bead envy  ;D.  They are fab!

Will try tomorrow night to see what I get.

Dx

Tina,

Thanks for the tip....I wish it wasn't so late....can't wait for tomorrow.

Dx

cwest

Quote from: Trudi on July 24, 2009, 09:36:54 PM
Normally I don't reduce much - but for this glass following Anouk's tips I did reduce more- but I twirl it lightly through a reduction flame a few times - this way it's getting the reduction but no heat.


So, how long does it need in the reduction flame? I know that is rather like asking how long is a piece of string, but are we talking a few seconds? Much longer?

Carolyn

afina

Quote from: cwest on July 24, 2009, 09:20:56 PM
I can't get this glass to work either. Getting very frustrated. For the last week I have been using a minor torch and that hasn't made any difference. To reduce this glass is it best to increase the propane, or reduce the oxygen, or doesn't it matter?

Carolyn

Reduce the oxygen. And then reduce it shortly in the flame - about 1/2 inch after the yellow candle. Then encase in neutral flame. While you encase it, the SB strikes and develops its colours.
Ic fou try it over clear, you can learn to see the process best: Make a clear basebead, encase with SB. The SB should be worked so hot that it gets coulourless. Take out of flame and let cool a little bit. Reduce till slightly golden look. Then encase with clear. Melt the clear in cooly, not getting too hot.

And to the other question: If you are getting murky army greens, then there was too much reducing or you reduced too near to the torchhead (do you say torchhead in english?).

I also like Ornela light blue opaque as a basecolour very much!
Have fun and show us some pics!
Regards, Verena
Glasperlenwerk - My bead-site with blog (German) - http://www.glasperlenwerk.at
Vetromagic - Frit and fritblends in COE 104 - http://shop.vetromagic.at

Trudi

That's great. Glad that you got there in the end!

Pixiedebs

Vicki,

Have you tried yet??

Dx

Pixiedebs

Sorry Vicki,

Forgot you're at a fair.  Hope it went well.

Dx

Vicki.White

I'm back now. Just gunna have a tidy up of all my stuff, cuz in a BIG mess after the fair!!! and then I'm gunna have another go. But from the last few times I have tried, I know that by the time I have the SB cooling down after completely heating it is this dark blue/black colour which ain't gunna do NOFIN in a reducing flame  especially not go shinny AT!ALL(excuse my common-ness I get like that when I'm feeling a bit if not very frustrated!) I so want it to work for me!!! please please work Silver Brown pleeeeeeease!

Veebee

You will get colour, trust me (......points to signature....)
;D

It just takes practice  ;)
Web: http://www.veebeads.net
The UK home of Val Cox frit!!
Fritt Flickr group: http://www.flickr.com/groups/1647822@N25/

Pixiedebs

AARRRRGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!

Sorry. Now I've tried not reducing it before I encase as I'm on a HH.  Other than doing a wierd dance around the room praying to the Reichenbach God of Glass I can't think of anything else to do.

I don't know why this is getting to me so much.....yes I do.....I can do it with the others and I refuse to be beaten into a sludge coloured corner!!!!

Oh well try again tonight!!!

Dx

hollergrafik

I am on a minor and still cant get it to work, bad glass  :D