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#31
Website issues / Posting photos
Last post by beadammed - November 04, 2021, 12:42:48 PMIt?s been a while since I visited FH and even longer since I lampworked. I?ve decided to clear out some of my lamp work books and would like to offer them on FH. I?d like to be able to post photos of them but I?ve forgotten how to do this. I don?t have Facebook and hove a limited grasp of all things IT. Can anyone suggest a way for me to upload the pics?
#32
Looking For..... / Looking to buy a kiln
Last post by saffie - November 01, 2021, 12:27:11 PMHi all. Been a loonnnngggg time since I have posted on here.
I hope you are all well.
I am looking to buy a kiln that I can do silver metal clay and enamelling in. Ideally a paragon sc2 as I am familiar with that. Before I go an buy new I wondered if anyone has one languishing somewhere that they don?t use anymore.
If this is you please consider me and let me know if you can help
Thank you so much
Saffie xxx
I hope you are all well.
I am looking to buy a kiln that I can do silver metal clay and enamelling in. Ideally a paragon sc2 as I am familiar with that. Before I go an buy new I wondered if anyone has one languishing somewhere that they don?t use anymore.
If this is you please consider me and let me know if you can help
Thank you so much
Saffie xxx
#33
Classified Ads / Lamp working Kit For Sale
Last post by Rainbow - July 29, 2021, 11:48:58 AMI sadly had to give up my love of working with glass several years ago due to becoming a carer, so I had to pack all my stuff away. As it looks unlikely I'll ever get a chance to get back into it, I have decided to try and sell my set up.
I have the following items for sale:-
Paragon Kiln
Oxycon
Creation Station
Nortel Minor
Lots of Glass including specials
Tools
Mandrels
Press
And several more bits and pieces.
I'm based in Devon and would love for someone to get the enjoyment out of it like I did. If anyone's interested in all or part of it, or knows anyone who is interested in setting up, please get in touch.
Many thanks
Alison
#34
Kiln Questions / Re: Alternate idea for dams/ki...
Last post by Moira HFG - June 20, 2021, 09:28:57 PMHi Flowers, some reservations spring to mind regarding using materials in the kiln that weren't intended for that purpose.
Is it stable at kiln temps? It might crumble if heated repeatedly.
Does it give off fumes?
Does it give off water vapour that will create bubbles in your work?
You can probably find the answers to some of these by checking the manufacturer's data sheet.
But overall, I would say dams aren't that expensive, often you can get kiln shelf off-cuts on eBay for very reasonable prices. You only need to buy them once, after all. Is the alternative material worth the bother?
By the way, how did the Roman Wall go?
Moira
Is it stable at kiln temps? It might crumble if heated repeatedly.
Does it give off fumes?
Does it give off water vapour that will create bubbles in your work?
You can probably find the answers to some of these by checking the manufacturer's data sheet.
But overall, I would say dams aren't that expensive, often you can get kiln shelf off-cuts on eBay for very reasonable prices. You only need to buy them once, after all. Is the alternative material worth the bother?
By the way, how did the Roman Wall go?
Moira
#35
Kiln Questions / Re: Alternate idea for dams/ki...
Last post by Dietmar - June 15, 2021, 08:30:02 PMHi,
if you have that material for free, try it over regular kiln shelf, supported by 5mm of whatever works for you under the corners. For the dams it's worth a try, as well. It might be a good ida to prefire that material first without glass to check how it reacts to the heat. If it stays solid and heavy enough, it should work as dams. If it is still in allmost unfired condition, it might work as shelf as well. Maybe you'll need to support it in more spots than ceramic shelf. It should work nice with those papers, eaven better than with paint on separators. There is a third alternative: dry powder separators, based on diatomeous earth. They make more rough textured back sides and you can do sculpturing actions with them. Just add some more or make shallow grooves... Kilntop is the limit ;--)
if you have that material for free, try it over regular kiln shelf, supported by 5mm of whatever works for you under the corners. For the dams it's worth a try, as well. It might be a good ida to prefire that material first without glass to check how it reacts to the heat. If it stays solid and heavy enough, it should work as dams. If it is still in allmost unfired condition, it might work as shelf as well. Maybe you'll need to support it in more spots than ceramic shelf. It should work nice with those papers, eaven better than with paint on separators. There is a third alternative: dry powder separators, based on diatomeous earth. They make more rough textured back sides and you can do sculpturing actions with them. Just add some more or make shallow grooves... Kilntop is the limit ;--)
#36
Kiln Questions / Alternate idea for dams/kiln s...
Last post by Flowers - June 15, 2021, 06:34:01 PMHello - I know that it is good to use ceramic dams for glass but I just wondered is it possible to dam with Ceramic Fiber Thermal Insulation Board (2732F) it is aluminosilicate- Inorganic - Flame Retardant, Heat Resistant? Also looking for an alternate kiln shelf could I use this do you think if I cover with Thin Fire or Papyros paper? Thank you
#37
Search Tips and Techniques / Re: glass pen nib?
Last post by Dietmar - June 13, 2021, 04:45:59 PMPush dust away... blow....((
)
Wet Canvas altered their structure and the link abouve goes into the nothing.
I know from Lauscha Farbglashuette they make canes for those nibs. The cosssection is a 10...12 pointed star with deep grooves. Warm this shape as gently as possible untill it is barely soft enough to pull to the wanted thickness. The most important thing is to work these star shaped canes as cold as possible not to loose the grooves. Once they are gone you lost them on this part. Just replace and learn to warm up with more patience and less speed.
)Wet Canvas altered their structure and the link abouve goes into the nothing.
I know from Lauscha Farbglashuette they make canes for those nibs. The cosssection is a 10...12 pointed star with deep grooves. Warm this shape as gently as possible untill it is barely soft enough to pull to the wanted thickness. The most important thing is to work these star shaped canes as cold as possible not to loose the grooves. Once they are gone you lost them on this part. Just replace and learn to warm up with more patience and less speed.
#38
Search Tips and Techniques / Re: Yellow experiments
Last post by Dietmar - June 13, 2021, 04:34:10 PMSweeping little dust, but... my 2c
If you need a specific color in between two others consider mixing them. The number three is too reddish and sulfur yellow not reddish enough they should mix to the right hue. For a quick experiment start with the ropds and mix the first two centimeters of both. Once the striations are small enough pinch a small part with the tweezers and wait untill it is cold enough for the true color. Too ...ish, add the other color.
For the reddish part you can take every color that is red, orange or coral. For the other part you can take every too yellowish color and ivoury (
). Ivoury turns every red into more yellowish hues. If the color needs to be slightly more muted add little brown oe traces of cobalt blue or pea green. The last two additives heve to be tested with yellow or an other sulfur color to be really free of copper (no black lines between both colors when melted on top)
The maximum usefull batch size is 5 gramm for a "single fuel torch" and 20 gramm for a propane oxy torch. 20 gramm filles a round film container.
If you need more than one big batch measure the components and repeat the measuruing for every repeated mixture.
If you need a specific color in between two others consider mixing them. The number three is too reddish and sulfur yellow not reddish enough they should mix to the right hue. For a quick experiment start with the ropds and mix the first two centimeters of both. Once the striations are small enough pinch a small part with the tweezers and wait untill it is cold enough for the true color. Too ...ish, add the other color.
For the reddish part you can take every color that is red, orange or coral. For the other part you can take every too yellowish color and ivoury (
). Ivoury turns every red into more yellowish hues. If the color needs to be slightly more muted add little brown oe traces of cobalt blue or pea green. The last two additives heve to be tested with yellow or an other sulfur color to be really free of copper (no black lines between both colors when melted on top)The maximum usefull batch size is 5 gramm for a "single fuel torch" and 20 gramm for a propane oxy torch. 20 gramm filles a round film container.
If you need more than one big batch measure the components and repeat the measuruing for every repeated mixture.
#39
Search Tips and Techniques / Re: I’m stuck how can I make a...
Last post by Dietmar - June 13, 2021, 04:12:31 PMOK, that size of the wall gives some limits to ideas. But it helps to find more precise recipies...
The grouting can be made from a slightly darker or lighter hue of the wall color. Just use finely ground powder and it will be little more opaque than the "bricks". Just mix the powder with some fusing glue to a paste that can be applied with a stiff paint brush. Apply it first and add the stone material later.
If you do the stones themselves in frit try to add a small quantity of grond Schott AR glass (clear only). This glass is much stiffer than Bullseye and leaves a more textured surface. Alternatively try this with Schott ARTISTA. This glass is stiffer than Bullseye as well and fits well enough from the fusing properties. It's little less stiff than AR, somehow comparable with Uroboros COE90 (running out of the market).
Other question: Do you have any kind of torch for lampworking? A bunsen burner type brazing torch would do it. It helps to make frit or stringers, murrina or mosaic tiles.
The alternative way to layered glass is stacking a high pile of small shards and give them a full fuse. The resulting disc will be about 6mm thick and has finer layers. Cut into stripes (diamond saw) and used side-up there is a nice "stony" texture more layered like slate.
Having not the true color for something is the reason why I started mixing colors. Clear glass makes mixing eaven easier: Just layer the components ant the light coming through will mix the colors. OK, this works easy in lampworking, but fusing with frit can do it as well. Maybe you should think more into the granite area. This allowes you more "natural" colors and the use of more coarse frit.
Now it's Playtime...
The grouting can be made from a slightly darker or lighter hue of the wall color. Just use finely ground powder and it will be little more opaque than the "bricks". Just mix the powder with some fusing glue to a paste that can be applied with a stiff paint brush. Apply it first and add the stone material later.
If you do the stones themselves in frit try to add a small quantity of grond Schott AR glass (clear only). This glass is much stiffer than Bullseye and leaves a more textured surface. Alternatively try this with Schott ARTISTA. This glass is stiffer than Bullseye as well and fits well enough from the fusing properties. It's little less stiff than AR, somehow comparable with Uroboros COE90 (running out of the market).
Other question: Do you have any kind of torch for lampworking? A bunsen burner type brazing torch would do it. It helps to make frit or stringers, murrina or mosaic tiles.
The alternative way to layered glass is stacking a high pile of small shards and give them a full fuse. The resulting disc will be about 6mm thick and has finer layers. Cut into stripes (diamond saw) and used side-up there is a nice "stony" texture more layered like slate.
Having not the true color for something is the reason why I started mixing colors. Clear glass makes mixing eaven easier: Just layer the components ant the light coming through will mix the colors. OK, this works easy in lampworking, but fusing with frit can do it as well. Maybe you should think more into the granite area. This allowes you more "natural" colors and the use of more coarse frit.
Now it's Playtime...
#40
Search Tips and Techniques / Re: I’m stuck how can I make a...
Last post by Margram - June 13, 2021, 10:21:04 AMTo post photos -
Another idea for the brick wall - maybe paint it using enamels?
Quote from: Margram on February 19, 2021, 01:40:58 PM
Ruth, posting photos is clunky but doable: upload photo to Flickr, click the curvy arrow, choose bb code, medium size and copy and paste here
Another idea for the brick wall - maybe paint it using enamels?