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#91
Courses / Classes / Re: 'How to' practical flamewo...
Last post by Angie - September 12, 2020, 10:07:13 AMLooking forward to watching your videos
#92
Forum Announcements / Re: We Now have a Wiki
Last post by Dickie - September 05, 2020, 04:19:12 PMOK, have another go, I think I might have fixed it.
#93
Forum Announcements / Re: We Now have a Wiki
Last post by Dickie - September 05, 2020, 03:59:42 PMUnfortunately it looks like an incompatibility between the MediaWiki software and the version of PHP we are using.
I'm not sure when I will be able to look into this, as it could be quite involved.
Sorry, but don't hold your breath
In terms of the logging in issues, try clearing the cookies for the domain frit-happens.co.uk, as I successfully logged in and changed the sandbox page.
I'm not sure when I will be able to look into this, as it could be quite involved.
Sorry, but don't hold your breath
In terms of the logging in issues, try clearing the cookies for the domain frit-happens.co.uk, as I successfully logged in and changed the sandbox page.
#94
Search Tips and Techniques / Re: using a fibre paper stenci...
Last post by Flowers - September 01, 2020, 05:48:50 PMHi Dietmar
Thank you for some super ideas and for taking the time to help me out.
What do you think will happen if I fully fused the 3mm fibre stencils that are filled with frit directly on the tekta? Do you mean that is prob better to tack fuse and then after that fully fuse if it works??
I think I need to experiment like you say. Usually I am a bit gung ho and I just go for it and end up with disasters or happy surprises
Thank you for some super ideas and for taking the time to help me out.
What do you think will happen if I fully fused the 3mm fibre stencils that are filled with frit directly on the tekta? Do you mean that is prob better to tack fuse and then after that fully fuse if it works??
I think I need to experiment like you say. Usually I am a bit gung ho and I just go for it and end up with disasters or happy surprises
#95
Search Tips and Techniques / Re: using a fibre paper stenci...
Last post by Dietmar - August 31, 2020, 08:14:03 PMThe idea is interesting and worth to try it. If you are going for tackfuse the frit will stay as raised shapes. That might look interesting in combination with cut shapes from the same colors, because the frit will shatter the light different than the solid pieces. If there is space in your kiln with the mica experiments just put a square grit of fiber paper on a sheet of tecta and fill each hole with a different idea, color, size of frit, ... untill you run out of ideas. I would recommend about one inch holes and half inch walls. Make some triangular holes and fill the different angles in the corners to see, how well the frit fills them and sticks to the base.
If you use a 3mm base and use one 3mm type of glass for the "borders" as mentioned for the fiber paper, the result will be total different. You can combine both types of "borders" to your advantage, just play with it!
If you use a 3mm base and use one 3mm type of glass for the "borders" as mentioned for the fiber paper, the result will be total different. You can combine both types of "borders" to your advantage, just play with it!
#96
Search Tips and Techniques / using a fibre paper stencil on...
Last post by Flowers - August 31, 2020, 08:56:45 AMHello hope all well very quick question. I have been reading up a lot about kiln carving and watching lots of videos and how tos on You Tube I see that for kiln carving the glass is placed on top of the fibre paper design. However, I wonder would it or can it work to carve out a design/stencil on 3mm or 6mm fibre paper place this fibre stencil directly onto clear tekta then fill the stencil with frit and stringers, coloured glass etc and fire on a full or tack fuse. So that the design from the stencil comes out on top of the tekta?
Has anyone had any success doing this or tried it?
Has anyone had any success doing this or tried it?
#97
Inclusions & Additions / Re: Mica disaster what did I d...
Last post by Flowers - August 31, 2020, 08:47:50 AMHello thank you both sooo much for the advice and information. The mica was in powder form. I am going to try again as suggested with little squares and see what happens capped and uncapped a nd try mixing with a glue or some such as well. I hope to have better success with this medium in the future. Thank you both for helping me out :-)
#98
Inclusions & Additions / Re: Mica disaster what did I d...
Last post by Dietmar - August 25, 2020, 09:12:35 PMGlass can dissolve other silicates at high temperatures. Mica is an alumosilicate (...). Due to the fact mica breakes into very fine layers the process of dissolving is not uncommon. Some minerals let go gasses while dissolving in glass and mica might let go water while heated.
Was the mica in coarse flakes or a fine powder? Powders will make thinner layers and dissolve faster. If the mica does not dissolve it also does not hold the base and the capping layer togeather. It acts like a separator and might create undercuts or seeds for cracks between the layers.
Bubbles under a capping layer of clear glass are always a problem if there are trapping structures underneath. Each elevation (frit, stringer, ...) will trap air because the edges of a capping layer sink faster to the base than the supported parts.
Some ideas for the second try:
- Use 6mm tectra and stay with surface decoration if you want to fire for full fuse anyways.
- After adding the frit and drawing heat for the frit to melt flat.
- Use the mica with a water based fusing glue as a painting medium to spread it on the glass surface.
- Never mix mica and glass powder (enamel, ...) because it will create a permanent rough surface.
Was the mica in coarse flakes or a fine powder? Powders will make thinner layers and dissolve faster. If the mica does not dissolve it also does not hold the base and the capping layer togeather. It acts like a separator and might create undercuts or seeds for cracks between the layers.
Bubbles under a capping layer of clear glass are always a problem if there are trapping structures underneath. Each elevation (frit, stringer, ...) will trap air because the edges of a capping layer sink faster to the base than the supported parts.
Some ideas for the second try:
- Use 6mm tectra and stay with surface decoration if you want to fire for full fuse anyways.
- After adding the frit and drawing heat for the frit to melt flat.
- Use the mica with a water based fusing glue as a painting medium to spread it on the glass surface.
- Never mix mica and glass powder (enamel, ...) because it will create a permanent rough surface.
#99
Inclusions & Additions / Re: Mica disaster what did I d...
Last post by Zeldazog - August 25, 2020, 08:15:18 PMHi
I've only used mica in a fairly minimal capacity, but I don't cap it, I use it top surface only. When it comes out, usually some will rub or brush off, but then left with a subtle sheen. As far as I am aware, only a particle thickness of mica will stick to the glass, the rest doesn't stick - so you cannot add more mica on top of mica to make it thicker or shinier.
If ever I have got mica underneath and inbetween anything that was supposed to be fused to the base glass, the top piece has come away (frit or caps for wire loops)
I'll guess that the bubbles have formed where a) the mica as prevented the glass from fusing together due to it's own properties and b) offgassing of the perfect pens, nowhere for the product to escape.
I don't know the optical properties of mica and what makes it have such a sheen, but I am guessing that by capping it, you negate those reflective properties.
Why not make some test tiles - all you need is a one inch square of whatever glass you're wanting to use, and try each of the possible variants, you will learn so much this way. Better to spend a quid on electricity firing a kiln with only test pieces in than spoil something that you've made.
I think some people have mixed mica with a medium of some sort, spread it onto some sort of carrier paper, and then cut shapes out with it - may be use the search function of the forum and see if there are any other posts about mica.
I've only used mica in a fairly minimal capacity, but I don't cap it, I use it top surface only. When it comes out, usually some will rub or brush off, but then left with a subtle sheen. As far as I am aware, only a particle thickness of mica will stick to the glass, the rest doesn't stick - so you cannot add more mica on top of mica to make it thicker or shinier.
If ever I have got mica underneath and inbetween anything that was supposed to be fused to the base glass, the top piece has come away (frit or caps for wire loops)
I'll guess that the bubbles have formed where a) the mica as prevented the glass from fusing together due to it's own properties and b) offgassing of the perfect pens, nowhere for the product to escape.
I don't know the optical properties of mica and what makes it have such a sheen, but I am guessing that by capping it, you negate those reflective properties.
Why not make some test tiles - all you need is a one inch square of whatever glass you're wanting to use, and try each of the possible variants, you will learn so much this way. Better to spend a quid on electricity firing a kiln with only test pieces in than spoil something that you've made.
I think some people have mixed mica with a medium of some sort, spread it onto some sort of carrier paper, and then cut shapes out with it - may be use the search function of the forum and see if there are any other posts about mica.
#100
Inclusions & Additions / Mica disaster what did I do wr...
Last post by Flowers - August 25, 2020, 12:37:46 PMHello I have had a fun time experimenting with some Bullseye mica. I have not used it before and I don't know where I went wrong. I made a Stencil design using fine coloured Bullseye powders sprinkled on 3mm Tekta and then tack fused this. It cane out quite nicely but I decided to have a go with Perfect Pens and draw around the pattern and then sprinkled mica on for emphasis brushing off the remainder. Then I became stuck should it go back in the kiln on a full or tack fuse. Should it be capped etc etc
So I put the piece back in the kiln capped with another 3mm of Tekta and put on a full fuse.
On opening the kiln I can see that all the mica has disappeared!!!! I also have bubbles in the piece.
I do not know what I did wrong and would love some help and advice.
At what point can mica be incorporated and should it be tack fused or full fused, capped or not capped?
Thank you so much for any help.
So I put the piece back in the kiln capped with another 3mm of Tekta and put on a full fuse.
On opening the kiln I can see that all the mica has disappeared!!!! I also have bubbles in the piece.
I do not know what I did wrong and would love some help and advice.
At what point can mica be incorporated and should it be tack fused or full fused, capped or not capped?
Thank you so much for any help.