encasing Silver rich glass

[silverlemon]

At last, I've had time to play a bit and I've managed to get colours from my stinking striking DH glass, so no more poo on a stick. Hurrah! 

But....and here's the thing.....how do you keep the colour you've got and then encase it without loosing it?
I know I should play more and do lots of experiments but I just don't have the time.

Do you encase then strike? or get the colour right then encase really cold and shape by marver rather than melting? Or does what happens to the colour depend on which clear you use, like it does encasing silver wire? What I'd love to achieve is this stuff like post 44, they're just so lush!

Any help appreciated, ta ladies and gents. 

[garishglobes]

I'm not much good at this but I'd say that generally encasing slows the striking down a bit. I usually just get it struck (only just, if you see what I mean) and then encase, allowing the extra heat to strike it a bit further. It does seem to depend on the glass in question though, as well as probably the thickness of the glass and encasing. Even then I'd say the planets have to be aligned and the frogs croaking in unison for reliable results!!

[sublimekate]

Even then I'd say the planets have to be aligned and the frogs croaking in unison for reliable results!!

LOL Emma.

Well assuming first of all that the right elements are in harmonious alignment, I then get the silver glass on there, heat up the glass I'm going to encase with to a snot consistency, strike the bead and encase (quick) keeping the struck bead just out of the flame. Does that make sence, if I've left gaps in the encasing or need to do the sides I strike again and encase as before. I'm on a HH BTW, this is my way, there'll probably be at least a dozen others      Kate xx

[Trudi]

What I'd love to achieve is this stuff like post 44, they're just so lush!

Any help appreciated, ta ladies and gents. 

What's post 44???

Sometimes trying to encase silver rich colours can be hard if it's a large section - say if you have to put 2 coils around - you can see a "line"


I have tried making encased stringers with Pysche - this seems to work well. I layer it on a base glass (heffalump is a good one) - layer on pysche - reduce it - then encase and pull - this is good for decoration:

This is not the best example - but you can see the idea!


By the way - these were both made with pysche - one after the other:




Sometimes you get what you get - but I was after this:


What colours does everyone else use as a base for psyche?

[Rachel]

What's post 44???

That's what I was wondering too

I think with the striking glasses you have to either strike it when encased so you would need to not strike fully before you put your encasing on or strike fully but then don't heat too much after encasing.  I haven't had much success with keeping the colour myself - it seems to be pretty hit and miss (for me anyway )

With the reduction glass you should reduce first then apply your clear but try not to get the bead in the flame while encasing or you'll lose the reduction.  You can reduce part of the bead again though and carry on encasing.

[silverlemon]

oops, I forgot the link

http://lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95712&page=2

it's the yummy multicoloured ones and the red/orange. They're just so yum.

Thank you for the tips, I'll try again later.

So before you strike, do you all heat the snot out of it?
hee hee, lovely techie term. 

[Chameleon]

Sarah, on that post, Deb says she "I superheated till clear....gravity swirled then cooled it till orange glow was gone... flash just a bit cause i couldnt help myself...lol then encase!" I was going to say pretty much the same thing, depending on which glass you have basically heat the snot out of it, get it cold (no glow) encase. this usually brings colours on its own, if not get it cold again and then heat it again. you can repeat for different colours to develop.

[♥♥Tan♥♥]

Top tips there Beckster, I found half a rod of something that I thought was silver glass of some variety and battled with it all morning only managing to get vague insipid colours out of it............bloody silver glass

I shall try your snot heating method next time

[*rowanberry*]

Heating the snot out of the striking colours usually works fantastically.

anyone played with Pandora yet?
I am struggling with her, some of my beads came out yummy purples, but some came out like babypoo and nothing but a yukky nasty colour.

[Trudi]

Top tips there Beckster, I found half a rod of something that I thought was silver glass of some variety and battled with it all morning only managing to get vague insipid colours out of it............bloody silver glass

I shall try your snot heating method next time

Somedays they're just like that! See my pysche beads!

Pandora - only a little but check this out

http://www.beadersshowcase.com/photo/photo/show?id=2049967%3APhoto%3A22022&context=user

http://www.frit-happens.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7842.msg139756#new

DH Nyx

Nyx is not just a new color but a new kind of color. Nyx will reduce to a mirror-like or multi-colored luster, as you'd expect from a Double Helix color, but Nyx does something else! Though the rods start out black as Night, Nyx will kiln strike through a steady fade of Midnight Blue, Lapis, Peacock, Turquoise, and Sky Blue. You can determine the coloration through annealing time, temperature and placement in your kiln.
Tips: We recommend kiln striking a rod of Nyx to estimate the kiln striking time at your annealing temperature. Our kiln striking tests were perfomed between 950 and 970 degrees F. One hour annealing time produced Midnight blue, while Sky Blue tones developed over three to four hours. Higher annealing temperatures push the Sky Blue to a greenish color. Encasing may alter kiln struck color.

Encasing heavily reduced Nyx can produce a mother-of-pearl effect. Speckled and swirled organic effects can be acheived by working the glass very hot before application. Excessive reduction followed by kiln striking can produce earthy caramel tones.

DH Elektra 2

New formula resists boiling and kiln burn off.
This aquamarine glass can be struck to several levels; metallic mirror effects, creamy blues and greens or when struck repeatedly or heavily reduced strong reds.

DH Aion 2

This well balanced formula is easy to strike and hard to mess up. A silver rich color in a clear base, capable of producing blue and green fume effects and soft transparent pinks and purples. The photographs are taken over white and black to demonstrate the effects of transmited and reflected light on this color. This new formula will replace Olympia Rain.
And Mary has posted up tips somewhere too!

[♥♥Tan♥♥]

They are sexy as heck and I am not one bit jealous!!!!

Ok, I am jealous but cos its you I won't say it out loud

[*rowanberry*]

They are yum!
I got some colours like that in some beads, but baby poo in others...
What colour was the glass when you put it in? did you put the pandora on top of anything else?

[Billie]

It's a bit confusing, but those "pandora" beads are done by an American artist whose Beadershowcase ID is Karolen.  She has some beautiful silver glass beads in her album.  There's a link beneath the photo there 

[*rowanberry*]

Oh sorry - duh!

[silverlemon]

I had another go a couple of hours ago. First few I made a tiny bead, heated the snot until it cooled to a hint of transparent green, then encased it. The colours came beautifully but when I heated it to smooth out the encasing and shape the bead I got the dreaded beige again. This is my problem! I'm obviously over striking as I melt it smooth. I suppose I must work out a way to get my encasing smooth without further striking.

So.....the beige ones I then superheated with the encasing, cooled and then struck.....and I got colours...can't wait to see what comes out of the kiln.

What I'd like to be able to do is plunge dots and patterns on bigger beads without loosing colour or over striking, or is this not possible?

I'm happier cos I feel like I'm getting somewhere at last, it really bugs me when I can't do something.

thank you for the tips, can we keep them coming as I'm sure I'm not the only silver rich glass challenged person ? pretty please?