Adjustable stainless steel ring

[Sandera]

I've done a couple of pot melts using plant pot saucers as my container for the glass to melt into. It's been reasonably successful creating consistent round shapes.

But I wonder if anyone has managed to source stainless steel rings (or squares) that can be used instead? It's just that i find the plant pot saucers tend not to last too long and quite often bits of the glass sticks to the clay despite loads of treatment. It would be easier to be able to dam the glass differently.

Hoping someone can help 

[Pat from Canvey]

I just pot melt onto fibre paper, having made sure that the kiln shelf is level so that the melt comes out round. My local builders merchant does terracotta pieces that can be kiln washed and propped up on the fibre paper to form any angular shape I might need. Similarly, I've also used cut up strips of old kiln shelf instead of the terracotta. It does work as I've also made a glass brick in this way made from old COE compatible stained glass scraps (mainly clear but with bits of colour added) and stirred the glass while liquid. I expect suitably kiln washed stainless steel scraps would also work but never tried it. If no rectangular shape is commercially available, you could get hold of some clay, make whatever shape you wanted and fire to bisque before kiln washing. I've made a couple of custom molds this way, one in the shape of a fish by draping a clay sheet over an existing dish I wanted to duplicate._{Can you tell that I like to play and experiment}

[Sandera]

Thanks Pat - that's really interesting and i'm definitely going to go for the fibre paper method. You stirred the glass when it was molten?! That's brave and something I want to do but I haven't got the confidence yet!

I'm really annoyed with myself as we got rid of a load of old terracotta roof tiles recently. I could have smashed them up into random sizes and shapes to create more abstract forms for the dam. As a matter of interest how do you cut up an old kiln shelf? I have a cheap old electric tile cutter but I would have to smash the shelf up a bit (it's a big round shelf that broke into 2 equal parts) to make it manageable. Or would you use a different tool?

And finally...... what temperature do you have to fire to for bisque?

I need to continue experimenting but it's really helpful to learn from someone more experienced so as to avoid expense. For example the shelf, mentioned above, broke when I did my first open kiln cast. I've since learned that vermicullite on the shelf would have prevented the breakage - something to do with different temperatures of shelf and mould. It was an expensive mistake!

[Pat from Canvey]

I used an electric tile cutter too. I think I used 1,000 centigrade because that's how high my big pottery kiln would go at the time, ( having been modified for glass). Heres a stained glass (Spectrum) combed piece I did years ago, using BBQ tools to do one pass each time I opened the kiln door. Temp set to about 930 deg cent. Long kiln gloves, eye protection plus a DIY thick see through plastic shield supported on straps from my shoulders to stop the blast from the open door hitting my face and neck. Looked fantastic but worked.

[Sandera]

Wow! That looks very precise - you must have bags of confidence! I imagine, if I ever do one, it will be a mad swirl as I get in and out as quickly as possible! I would, of course, claim it as an abstract piece 

[Sandera]

An update:

I tried the fibre paper method (in the base of a teracotta saucer) but the paper seemed to bunch up thus I got an irregular shape rather than a circle. In addition the base of the piece was quite 'lacey' (I'm not sure how else to describe it) although I liked the effect. I think the fibre paper was 3mm thick. I gave in after a couple of false starts and invested in some MR-97. It's a good product but pricey. I would much prefer the cheaper fibre paper method if I rectify the bunching problem.

[Pat from Canvey]

I've not used fibre paper if I was going to comb in case the tools dug through to the paper. For things like pot melts I've just let the glass drip onto a batt washed shelf. Then if I wanted absolutely circular, cut the cold melt using a diamond band saw. Have you looked at stainless steel flan rings that are sold in cook shops? You could line one of these with fibre paper or wash, place on shelf and use that as your mold.

[Moira HFG]

It's worth checking pound shops - I found a handy round stainless steel tray that way.

Pat, that combed glass piece is fantastic! Wonderful colour and pattern.

[Glyn Burton]

You could try making moulds with a 50/50 mix of silica flour and casting plaster either as rings placed on a bat washed shelf or more complex shapes. Just dry them out fully before using.

[AGC]

Hello from California, USA,

The title of your thread asks about adjustable stainless steel rings, but the first post does not specify that the shapes need to be adjustable.

Here is a commercial source: http://www.slumpys.com/Warm-Glass-Molds/Casting-Forming
The lock-in molds and the link-locks are the adjustable forms.

However, I would recommend considering this artist as a source:
http://bonnydoonfusedglasstools.com
Laurie Spray has great information, tutorials and examples on her site.  She has another site where it is easier to find examples of her work:   http://lauriespray.blogspot.com

Also, there is a site with heart-shaped metal forms, but I can't remember what it is right now.

[Sandera]

You could try making moulds with a 50/50 mix of silica flour and casting plaster either as rings placed on a bat washed shelf or more complex shapes. Just dry them out fully before using.

That's interesting Glyn. Couple of questions: would the mould need to kiln washed? (I'm assuming not); would it survive multiple firings?; and does the shelf itself not get ruined? (I thought I read somewhere that a pot melt is very hard on kiln shelves.)

[Sandera]

I've not used fibre paper if I was going to comb in case the tools dug through to the paper. For things like pot melts I've just let the glass drip onto a batt washed shelf. Then if I wanted absolutely circular, cut the cold melt using a diamond band saw. Have you looked at stainless steel flan rings that are sold in cook shops? You could line one of these with fibre paper or wash, place on shelf and use that as your mold.

If you are just doing a pot melt without combing do you find the fibre paper shifts and bunches? I wonder whether that's what's happening with mine as it's because it's loosely placed in the terracotta saucer? Perhaps a circle of clear glass would weigh the paper down? I'm not keen on melting straight on to a kiln washed shelf as I'm worried about ruining it if I'm honest. I'm going to have to source some flan rings as well.

[Sandera]

Hello from California, USA,

The title of your thread asks about adjustable stainless steel rings, but the first post does not specify that the shapes need to be adjustable.

Here is a commercial source: http://www.slumpys.com/Warm-Glass-Molds/Casting-Forming
The lock-in molds and the link-locks are the adjustable forms.

However, I would recommend considering this artist as a source:
http://bonnydoonfusedglasstools.com
Laurie Spray has great information, tutorials and examples on her site.  She has another site where it is easier to find examples of her work:   http://lauriespray.blogspot.com

Also, there is a site with heart-shaped metal forms, but I can't remember what it is right now.

I love the look of these but I prefer to purchase from the UK so I don't have to worry about additional charges. Now if you had a UK supplier.....

[JKC]

Ooh Bonnydoon for glass, tempted... Janet

[Glyn Burton]

is it bonnydoon that only appears every hundred years or am I thinking of brigadoon?
50/50 mix moulds do not need batwashing the glass comes away clean. They are normally single use but could with careful handling be used a couple of times especially if they have a plaster fibreglass jacket.
Another way if you want multiples is to make a case mould in gelflex so you can mass produce the moulds.