Where has the Diddy information gone?

Started by sparrow, October 20, 2008, 07:38:26 AM

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sparrow

I know somebody (Ian Pearson?) at some point carried together loads of links for diddies, but can't find them any more.......I think mine aren't good enough anymore...I seem to have a bit of trouble driving in the dark with other cars' lights. Before it gets any worse, I want a new pair, and as I've been given a bit of boro to play with, I might as well bite the bullet and get some that would be suitable with boro? I have no intention to branch out into boro full time - but also no intention to 'wreck my eyes now and then'. They're my only pair of eyes, so I don't mind paying proper money ;)

Thank you!

Modified: Does anybody use boro glasses with soft glass? Can you still see colours and stuff (and is that a stupid question?)
Sabine x

www.littlecastledesigns.co.uk www.facebook.com/littlecastledesigns Ring Top Tutorial

glassworks

hi sabine, i'll watch this one too as i have two seperate pairs - one for boro and one for soft.. wasn't aware that there was one to do both as the boro ones are far too dark to see soft glass?.. be brilliant if we can hunt some dual lenses down though!..
8)


sparrow

#2
Hi Q, found these at Sundance, they say they're split lens for both??

http://www.sundanceglass.com/eyewear-safety-glasses-glassblowers-lampworkers-shade3.htm

Hmm...but for that price, you can actually buy one set of each...hmmmm...

Everything seems to be either ACE202 or boro....., no 'soft glass better than ACE202, but not boro'?


Another edit: Found this, sounds helpful? http://mikeaurelius.wordpress.com/2007/12/26/your-eyes-the-only-pair-you-have/


And another edit: Is this what I want?

http://www.generationsglass.com/Eye_Protection.html

scroll down to

Phillips Green Ace - 808 Biker Frame - GB-G3/G5-808B
$150.00
Phillips Green Ace Lense are designed for borosilicate work. This lens is the ACE formula but with a green tint for absorbing Infra Red light that is emitted with working borosilicate glass.
These are available in Shade 3 and Shade 5
Please make your selection in the drop-down menu.

.....in a Shade 3? That green tint looks scarily clear, but I'm assuming if it does boro, it'll do soft glass? That should do my sensitive eyes for general soft glass, and would take the odd boro hit? As I said, should I really get into boro, I don't mind buying a second pair - not impressed with the split lens ones at Sundance because the top bit is exactly what I've got now.

Sorry to be such a flurry of activity!  :D
Sabine x

www.littlecastledesigns.co.uk www.facebook.com/littlecastledesigns Ring Top Tutorial

Ian Pearson

Unfortunately there is no one simple answer

I can only speak as a scientific glassblower working with clear borosilicate most of the time. I currently a pair of 20 year old Didymium which I am debating on changing. I don't like split lens and have used the same pair for both Borosilicate and soda ( which is what we call High expansion glasses). I think one can do this with a pair of specs designed for boro but the reverses is not true. Thus specs for soft glass cannot be used for boro. Recommended I would say to use two separate pairs. Cant see why anyone would need to wear a pair that would do both as unless one is making graded seals, ( soft to hard involving 6 different types of glass with various CoE), other than cost.

The following links I have used and it boils down for me a choice between AUR92, AGW300 and  Phillips ACE IR 3. The difference in the price between AUR92 and AGW300 is a lot and has driven me to consider clip ones as I have prescription glasses. One way of deciding is to ask what others are using and I am in process of consulting colleagues. for instance in Germany one scientific glassblower uses clip ones from wale apparatus ref 11-1020. Works for him fine and he is the President of the German Scientific Glassblowers Society nso he should know a thing or two! LOL. But I note there are no side shields so.... I am looking at larger ones that fit over existing specs

http://www.waleapparatus.com/catalog.asp?prodid=548083&showprevnext=1
or these http://www.waleapparatus.com/catalog.asp?prodid=548085&showprevnext=1

From

http://www.waleapparatus.com/index.asp?category=19018

This site below is probably the most helpful and I know several scientific glassblowers in UK using AURA various types for instance AGW 186 but this has been supersede by AGW300

http://www.auralens.net/e_gwrecommend.cfm

The Phillips range look good but I haven't found their site as useful as one above.

http://www.phillips-safety.com/Glass-Working-Metal-Frame/Index.htm

An example of  a supplier http://www.visionarysupplies.com/

Below I have added some comments from scientific glassblowers but I am sorry they probably will not help you as glass bead making is different to scientific in that the use of coloured glass is so dominant.

(I use Aura lenses AGW 186 they are very good but I think they have been
improved since)

(I also have the AURA lens and they are noticeably superior to dydimium. Like Grant my only objection is the weight of the lenses. Apparently, they cannot be tempered. Consequently to meet safety standards the lens blank is 5 mm thick.

So far as soft glass and IR, I think we tend to overlook the emergence of colour glass that can be flameworked. These glasses have far more metals and heavy metals in the glass and can transmit far more IR. Furthermore, unlike UV transmission which can cause physical discomfort IR is insidious and is the leading cause for what is medically known as "Glassblowers Cataract" : posterior subcapsular opacities caused by chronic exposure to infra-red (heat) radiation.)

(As for specs, I purchased some non prescription AURA specs direct from
USA about three or so years ago as concerned about UV and IR.
They are quite a different 'view ' to what I had been used to; as Kon
has said the colour is different, more blue than rose.
They are also lighter in weight to my old didys..the thickness of the
lens is less;.didys were 3+mm thick and has slipped down my nose on
occasion!)

(I'm using prescription AURA lens glassblowing glasses.

They are blue-ish instead of green but give a lot better protection from
light radiation in infrared, ultraviolet and sodium glare etc.

They are a big improvement on the old didymium glasses which are passe'.

It can take time to procure AURA Lens from the USA but it is well
worthwhile.

The side safety shields didn't last long on them, however.
It seems many parts in nthe optical world are made for appearance rather
than durability.
The rest of the glasses are strong and though they are heavy it is
worthwhile for the added performance.)

( to filter the bright orange light from the sodium in the glass.
- to protect the eyes from UV and IR radition, which come from the burners.

So when artists work soda glass, the flame might not give so much
radiation.
But I still recommend wearing a protection against it.

I'm using a polycarbonate clip-on which you can find at whale apparatus
with the product number 11-1020.
My eye-sight changes all the time, so with the clip-on it is cheaper and
easier to keep up-to-date.)



Ian

Ian Pearson

Personally I have found grade 5 too dark and prefer 3. 5 maybe work when glass in flame all the time but I find when you are putting glass in and out of flame a lotthen it is like someone turning the lights on and off . Flip ups are good though. What happened to the idea demoed at Flame Off by Gert of Isibeads? Seemed good at the time. Separate lens and all that.

Ian

Ian Pearson

Thought i would pass on some latest comments form the UK scientific glass email group as follows:

(I also use the
Aura lens, the earlier type that has a separate
laminated IR filter. Way superior to the old rose
didymium. Neither specs are suitable for working coloured borosilicate.

With the weight issue - it is a common
misconception that the lens has to be a large
diameter to act as safety spectacles, large
diameter spectacle sit further from your eyes so
require larger side intrusion covers, and may
also leave a gap at the top, whereas smaller
spectacles sit closer to your eyes, so if
anything have less open areas between your face
and the frame. It is important that the frame is
adjusted to fit your face and not slide down your
sweat covered nose!!! I understand the minimum
thickness is around 3.2mm to filter correctly.
Mike Aurelius – is that correct and are the lenses chemically toughened???

The frame I use is smallish made of titanium with
side intrusion covers they have a slight
correction for close up working (my arms have
grown shorter :-) ) I have experienced no
problems with them and they have been in use for
many years. I also use them for soda (clear and
coloured).

Some interesting point smade here but I am getting the message that the best advice is coming form actaul users and not suppliers.

Ian

ejralph

Ian, I have the AGW300 lenses for working soft glass. I absolutely love them.

The difference in IR filtration was noticable to me immediately. I stopped feeling so much heat on my eye balls and my eyes were not tired after a days torching. They are only suitable for clear boro and soft from what I understand. But if that is all you are looking for, then IMO they are fantastic. I wouldn't go back to Didys for all the tea in china!

Emma