Prometheus Pro-1 Kiln

ralphus · March 15, 2008, 02:46:03 PM

Hope someone can help.

I'm just wondering whether the Prometheus Pro-1 Kiln can be used for annealing beads. It has an inbuilt digital controller so does this mean it can be programmed?

Zeldazog · March 15, 2008, 02:55:58 PM

I''m fairly sure it can - when I was looking at the kitiki mini-kiln (same thing) - my understanding was that you could set a target temperature and ramp rate, but I would guess that you have to reset each section when it reaches target

- so you can't programme it and leave it, you'd still have to kiln sit - but in the knowledge that it won't just carry on going like a kiln with an infinite switch can.

I know there was a thread about this kiln awhile back, can't remember who, why or when, but I will see f I can find it, there might be ino in there,

ralphus · March 15, 2008, 03:18:17 PM

Thanks Dawn, I did have a search but I wasn't sure that the two threads I found answered my question.

More questions I'm afraid.

Would it be easy to find an annealling schedule for this or is there a standard schedule?
If I kiln sit but am late for the next stage, will this have any effect on the beads?

I'm afraid I don't understand the annealling side at all.

Zeldazog · March 15, 2008, 05:38:10 PM

I don't know about beads, I can only answer for Bullseye fusing glass - but you can't really over anneal it - its just wasteful that's all.

At higher temperatures, glass is in the "de-vitrification zone" (crystallizing) - hence why you keep that part of a fusing schedule as short as possible - but at annealing temperatures, its well out of that zone - so its safe to stay in the kiln for longer than the minimum required.

The other thing I would think you would have to consider with this type of kiln is how quickly they cool down - again, I assume that the key presses will allow you to control a ramp down rate, but worth checking that out for sure, as you don't want to cool down too quickly.

ralphus · March 15, 2008, 10:41:52 PM

Quote from: ralphus on March 15, 2008, 03:18:17 PM
Would it be easy to find an annealling schedule for this or is there a standard schedule?

I have found an annealing schedule and think I understand a little more about the process. Technical words (such as ramp and hold) were scaring me.

Thanks again Dawn.

I want one mainly for enamelling but thought if I could get one that can anneal as well, I'll try and make some beads worth annealling! I would imagine that I could buy a programmable controller at a later date.

Zeldazog · March 16, 2008, 11:00:00 AM

contact Robin at www.paragonkilns.co.uk same as kitiki.co.uk - he will tell you if you can change the programmer at a later date - or maybe Lee at Kilncare might be able to advise?

Trouble is, new controllers cost a LOT of money, unless you can get one second hand I guess. Silly money.

Lee - Kilncare · March 17, 2008, 09:44:28 AM

Hi mate, this is a fairly rare kiln in this country and as yet I am yet to come across one so I can't say wether or not it is suitable for annealing.

I have had a browse around and can't find anything conclusive there either.

With regards to swapping the controller later, well that depends on how the existing controller is wired. As I haven't come across this kiln before I also can't answer that one. Sorry.

But,

I can tell you that a ramp is how quickly the kiln moves from one temperature to the next, be that up or down and a hold is how long it stays at the temperature once it gets there.

Sorry I couldn't be of more use.

Lee

ralphus · March 21, 2008, 01:43:20 PM

Thanks Lee

ebj · March 25, 2008, 03:54:27 PM

I use this every week for my art clay classes. I find it great for art clay silver and enamelling, its econimical, holds its heat and warms up fast. However for beads pretty tiny. And you may find that once you add the cost of a controller that you are better off with a paragon sc2. I owuld recommned to cal Robin but would guess he would recommend another kiln to you for annealing beads

Redhotsal · March 25, 2008, 06:14:11 PM

Someone asked me about one of these recently and I think we came to the conclusion that while you could use it, at a pinch, it really wasn't an ideal choice. The chamber is tiny and you will soon outgrow it. Also as the controller is integrated into the kiln it just isn't straightforward to swap controllers. As there doesn't seem to be a UK distributer here what do you do when it goes wrong - does the kiln have to go back to the States?
My other questions would be:
Can you ramp down from anneal temp (520deg C) to the strain temp (449 deg C for Effetre) slowly enough. That is, about 70 degrees per hour?
Truth is - if you have to manually control the temperature of your kiln it will drive you nuts after a couple of weeks.
Can you get the kiln to hold at the anneal temp for long enough - about 45mins for small beads to a couple of hours for large focals?

Remember you cannot over anneal your beads - as Zeldadog has said - at 500-ish degrees the glass isn't going to melt - it's just going to allow molecular movement - but if you underanneal or if you ramp down too quickly you might as well not bother with an anneal cycle at all.

Basically if the supplier cannot answer these questions accurately (and in my experience - suppliers will just say "yes" to any bead related kiln questions - so make sure you have them on the ropes with the fine details) my advice would be to save up your money until you've got enough for a more "mainstream" kiln.

My other advice would be - don't even think about buying a kiln until you absolutely understand why and how you are annealling beads. The kiln is the single most expensive item of kit in the bead making malarky and you really don't want to make a bad choice.

Information on annealling? It's all out there on t'internet. There's no excuse for not knowing what it's all about. There's no point in me writing it all out as there are reams of information on it already.
Try here: http://www.dragonbeads.com/anneal.html
http://www.glass-beads.co.uk/Flame/July%2006/Why%20Anneal.html
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-51401.html and so on....

ralphus · March 25, 2008, 10:27:26 PM

Thanks for your comments Emma and Sal.

I have done some reading on annealling form through this forum and understand the need for it but it just seems the more I read, the more confused I get, I'm not very technically minded. I will try the links that you suggested though Sal.

Robin · July 04, 2008, 08:41:18 AM

hi

the prometheus pro is the name given by the manufacturers (not in the US). we're distributors for it, renamed the MiniKiln, and it's fully described on www.electrickilns.co.uk. we carry spares, but have NEVER needed any.

yes it's small-ish and the programmer will only ramp up and stay there, but its £325 inc delivery. it's often a choice between this and the SC2. i'm happy to talk you through anything to do with kilns.

the cheapest kiln is the ultralite: on www.ultralitekiln.co.uk. but again, small with limited use.

We use three ultralites in our Art Clay courses, one minikiln, and one SC2.

rob