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Author Topic: Kilncare Hobby fuser 3 confused about firing schedule for bullseye glass  (Read 1461 times)
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Flowers
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« on: December 28, 2018, 08:12:10 AM »

Hi
I am stuck I have a Kilncare Hobbyfuser 3 that I purchased a while ago it came with basic fusing schedules.  I am self taught and I just donít understand firing schedules and ramps and holds and what it all means.
For example the kiln has five segments and each segment has a ramp a temp and then a hold but how do I know what to put in each section?  What does it mean?  Also do I have to use and fill every segment? For example for a small piece of jewellery I would like to do a fire polish but I have no clue how to program the kiln.  How do I learn all of this?  How do I learn what happens in each segment of ramp temp and hold?
Also to do a fire polish for example what would I need to program?
Attached is an example of what I mean where I have an example of a tack fuse schedule
Thank you for any help it probably sounds really dumb but I just donít understand it all.

                  Ramp        Temp.       Hold
Seg 1.         200.           538.         0.10
Seg 2.          250.           663.         10
Seg 3.         250.            750.         10
Seg 4.         Full.             482.         1.00
Seg 5.         66.               371.        0.00
End
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amareargentum
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« Reply #1 on: December 28, 2018, 10:05:44 AM »

Hi
Each segment is a step in the heating/cooling cycle. The Ramp figure is the speed that the temperature will change, either heating or cooling. It is expressed in the number of degrees centigrade (assuming your kiln is set to centigrade) change each hour. The Temperature is the target temperature for that segment. The Hold is how long that temperature is maintained. So for Segment 1 in your example the kiln will heat up at the rate of 200C/hour until it reaches 548C. That temperature will be held for 10 minutes. The programme will then move onto the next segment and so on.

There is lots of helpful information including firing schedules for Bullseye Glass and a video explaining what a schedule is here https://www.warm-glass.co.uk/kiln-schedules-cms-74.html

Hope that helps
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Margram
Temperature's rising
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Glass in pocket


« Reply #2 on: December 28, 2018, 10:07:23 AM »

Ramp means rising or falling temperatures, so that first segment is the kiln heating at a rate of 200 degrees centigrade per hour until it reaches 538 degrees centigrade. Then it holds at that temperature for 10 minutes. Segment 2, the temperature is going to rise more quickly, at a rate of 250 deg per hour until it reaches 663 deg cent, and it will hold that for 10 mins. Similarly segment 3. Seg 4 it is allowing itself to cool as rapidly as it can (full rate), down to 482 deg. Then it holds there for an hour. Seg 5, it allows itself to cool slowly (at a rate of 66 deg per hour) down to 371 deg. At which point its work is done and you just have to wait for the kiln to cool down enough to be safe to open! Smiley
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Margram
Temperature's rising
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Glass in pocket


« Reply #3 on: December 28, 2018, 10:08:42 AM »

Haha, two simultaneous answers. Have fun🙂.
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Zeldazog
My name's Dawn, I'm an
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« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2018, 11:31:44 AM »

The "what happens in each part of the firing schedule" question is probably too complex to explain in a post - self taught is great and there is loads of information out there, but sometimes it's worth spending a bit of time with a tutor to get a better understanding of what is happening.  Otherwise get a good basic fusers book - I'd personally recommend Brad Walker's Contemporary Fused Glass, but there are other fusing books out there, along with websites loaded with information and schedules. 

Bullseye's Tech Notes 4, "Heat & Glass" is a great crib sheet that not only gives written explanations as to what's happening at each temperature range, but also gives a little graphic is well, explaining the effects of heat and thickness of glass.  You should be able get this sheet from Warm Glass UK or directly off Bullseye's own website - it's free, along with several other really good information in the form of tech notes and tip sheets - look under Education.

Recently, a very well respected glass artist, Bob Leatherbarrow, brought out an e-book about kiln schedules.  I've not had chance to get it yet, but it's been recommended by some of the most experienced fused glass artists and teachers that I know, who all reckon it's worth every penny.  I can't recall what it's called, but I am sure it will be obvious on his website.


As for recommending a schedule - whilst people can give you a guide, it really does boil down to getting to know your own kiln.  What might be a perfect fire polish in mine, may be way too hot, or not hot enough in yours, as not all kilns fire the same.    You can see from the link that amareagentum gives (the basic firing schedules document) that kilns vary their ideal temperatures, and even this really is just a starting point.   As well as the difference in kilns, you *must* take into account the size and thickness of the piece, especially when considering ramp speeds and annealing.   

No you don't have to fill every segment.  If, for example, you were making 'blobs' you can ramp up quite fast straight to target temperature, and then switch off and let the kiln cool down naturally - so that would be one ramp, target and hold, just one segment.    A more complex piece, with several layers of different thicknesses, might need a much slower ramp up, a bubble squeeze, and a more complex two stage anneal.  It very much depends on what you're making.


The beauty of glass is that it is such a wonderful material that it's not difficult to produce lovely things.  However, it can also be a technical material, don't expect to learn everything over night - it takes time.  I've been fusing for 12 years, I teach many classes and I still feel like I've only touched the tip of the iceberg.   
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Moira HFG
Half Full Glass
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« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2018, 12:14:45 PM »

You have a lovely kiln there, congratulations on your choice!

As Dawn says, now you need to learn to use it. My suggestion for a good book would be ďWarm GlassĒ by Philippa Beveridge, Ignacio Domenich and Eva Pascal. I think itís really clear on basic fusing techniques for all purposes, and has good info on coldworking tools too.

I would agree that the Bullseye tech notes are excellent - some are free, but if you want to splash out a bit, you can subscribe to the Bullseye Online Course, which you can follow at your own pace. https://www.warm-glass.co.uk/online-education-cms-62.html

Enjoy!
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