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Author Topic: Problems with silver glass  (Read 1086 times)
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shelly
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« on: August 30, 2016, 03:48:36 AM »

Morning everyone
So i decided after a long time of giving up to try silver glass again and i got the same disappointing results.  Everytime i use any of the types i either end up with a solid silver blob, which is very pretty but i want the colours and effects that is supposed to happen.

I tried again last night and got the same results.  I make my bead, add the silver glass and melt it into the bead, reduce then encase with clear and melt flat.  and it ends up with very little reaction just a very plain/unpleasant colour.  the other way i am trying is to not melt flat but end up with large silver dots what am i doing wrong? Huh  Am seriously close to giving it up as a lost cause.  if i use silver glass does it mean i cant have a smooth bead?  I have tried using an oxygen rich flame to get back some colour but then it starts to loose all colour.

Please help, probably something i am doing wrong and will feel stupid in a while when it is pointed out. ! Cheesy
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Dragonfire Glass
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« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2016, 04:45:19 AM »

Which silver glass are you using?
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lampworklover
yes, I managed to change my pic, only took 3 years
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« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2016, 04:47:56 AM »

First thoughts are that you need to keep the bead out of the flame once you've reduced it, and just put the encasing glass in the flame. With a lot of silver glasses, as soon as you put them back into a 'normal' flame, you'll lose the pretty reduction effect.
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mel
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« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2016, 06:18:29 AM »

Yes, that's pretty crucial-not to burn off the reduction during encasing.
Also, some glasses need striking and some need reducing, some need both. and when encasing, most silver glass likes to stay cool or it will lose the colours. There is a you tube video on how to use different DH glass that would be worth looking at-so bear in mind that you cant treat all DH glass the same-for instance Gaia doesn't like being encased, Psyche likes a very light waft through a reduction flame while Clio and Kalypso can tolerate more time in a reduction flame. Then there's your base colour. Black is pretty safe, and opal yellow is really good, but some DH glasses such as Clio will just react and go blue unless you put clear over your base before you put on the Clio.
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Laughinglass Lampwork Beads
shelly
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« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2016, 09:10:41 AM »

Thanks for all the info  i have been using Euros, Kalypso, Triton and Ossa.
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