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Mango Beads
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Author Topic: starting copper foiling/stained glass  (Read 2790 times)
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shafeenan
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« on: January 24, 2015, 02:35:28 PM »

I tried adding this to a thread about what to buy to get started but a message recommended starting a new topic, so here we go!
I've just started fusing glass and learning slowly. However last week I tried copper foiled glass(?)/stained glass at a craft fair and want to combine the two. 
I have a lot of the things the list suggested on the previous thread, however, it stopped short at advice on which solder and which foil - look on ebay at copper foil and there are hundreds of different types! 
Should one get the quick flowing solder and is 1/4in copper foil best for working with the average 2mm glass (sorry about different cm/ins, that's how the info has come to me!)
Also what is the right sort of copper foil called?! I was hoping to buy it from somewhere other than a craft glass supplier where prices always seem to be more expensive (apologies to all glass suppliers!)
Any help fantastic and if anyone has tried using fused pieces within their stained glass projects I'd love to know the pitfalls....
thanks all
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Pat from Canvey
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« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2015, 05:26:28 PM »

See my reply on the older thread and I seem to remember that the solder was 60/40. Also have a look at YouTube videos such as this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RHDGAU0lx8
You might also get hold of a copy of "Stained Glass, Projects and Patterns" by George Shannon & Pat Torlen. It has lots of basic information and you might be able to reserve a copy from your local Library. Amazon.co.uk have it in paperback for the princely sum of 0.89.
« Last Edit: January 24, 2015, 05:45:27 PM by Pat from Canvey » Logged

Carl
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« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2015, 06:25:51 PM »

I have just started copper foiling myself, having tools to cut glass I bought solder, flux and copper foil and as suggested watched some youtube videos and off I went. Turned out my soldering iron was not hot enough so bought a 100w iron that is actually a little too hot but works. The basics where easy to pick up but it is going to take some practice to get things as neat as I'd like.

I bought lead free solder and 1/4" tape both off ebay. The brand of tape I got is "Studio Pro", having not used other brands I can't compare but the pack it comes in works as a dispenser that works for me.

I have found it important to rough up the edges of the glass and clean it carefully both things help the tape stick to the glass.

As Pat said loads of good stuff on Youtube and a quick web search will give you loads of free patterns to get you started.
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Pat from Canvey
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« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2015, 08:11:41 PM »

The 100 watt iron is the correct one to use and will give you a good solder bead. There should be a minute space between the foil when soldering so that solder will go between the pieces of foiled glass as well as on the top in a bead. Think of an H shape on it's side. That's what gives the finished piece it's strength.
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Moira HFG
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« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2015, 08:26:49 PM »

The book Pat recommends is very good. See also the tutorial "The Lazy Man's Guide to Stained Glass" under Tutorials on this forum.

Lead and Light have a good selection of (3mm) stained glass - it's cheaper than fusing glass. But you can include fused pieces, shells, anything that won't melt near a hot iron! Just make sure the copper tape is a bit wider than the edge of the piece.

I only use lead-free solder on jewellery, 60/40 is easier to work with for things that won't be worn against the skin.
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shafeenan
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« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2015, 01:30:49 PM »

thank you all for so much advice and info - what a great Sunday I am going to have chasing down all the links!
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Carl
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« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2015, 09:56:08 AM »

Was on Youtube yesterday and re found this chap,

www.youtube.com/channel/UCYdTSJ4hWdfEiDJYGax_OiA

loads of copper foiling tutorials put over in an easy understandable way see also his website

www.karalstudio.com/glass/stained-glass-tutorials/introduction.html
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Bluekat
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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2015, 11:45:39 AM »

Hiya,
I'm relatively new to the stained glass thing (in work terms just a few weeks, but have been playing a day a week for about three years!) and have only just bought 1/4in copper tape, I've always used/been given thinner (I can't remember the size, but it's definitely thinner than 1/4in!) for 3mm glass.
The difference in tapes that I can see is some have a black or silver backing which can be seen through transparent glass, I've always used black backed, but if you're using opaque glass I guess it wouldn't matter too much if it's backed or not? Size wise, thinner tape means a thinner overlap to solder to, which results in a neater solder line through the work. I'm about to start a commission with the 1/4in tape, but wanted the larger line around the edge to tie in with copper that I'm including to the design.
Solder wise, I was advised to use 50/50 as it's the best heating and flowing one, the numbers represent the ratio of lead and ...(something else which has jumped out of my head!) other combinations could be too stiff, or too loose to use if you're new to soldering.
I personally have bought from tempsfordstainedglass.co.uk. They have been helpful and kind when I've asked stupid questions, and have so far always delivered the next day, they're in Nottingham, I'm in Worcestershire.
Hope I've not stepped on too many toes (as you can see I've not been brave enough to post anything before!)
Kat x
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richardnash666
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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2015, 11:55:31 AM »

My wife has just started as well and found a place call Tempsford Stained Glass (http://www.tempsfordstainedglass.co.uk/)

They have a wide range of stuff for sale and the staff are very friendly.
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Bluekat
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« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2015, 12:01:08 PM »

Good minds obviouly think alike! I'm surprised at the amount of people starting glass work! I'm attempting to do lampwork too!
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Pat from Canvey
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« Reply #10 on: May 05, 2015, 12:22:53 PM »

I used to deal with http://www.leadandlight.co.uk/ because it was reasonably straightforward for me to drive there and they allowed me to park in the archway in front of their doors. I also used to hire their large sandblaster for bigger projects. Also look at http://www.dfly.com/ Their software allows you to import images and design your windows without paper and pencil. The size of foil used depends on the size of panel you want to make because the thicker foil allows you to bead a stronger seam. It shouldn't affect the neateness of the solder line at all. You should heat the solder until it flows and then move to the next portion. If this is to be a free standing or hanging panel, you need to put zinc came around the outside, not copper foil as it won't be strong enough. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m4oMmoy-yw
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lorrainelee
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« Reply #11 on: May 05, 2015, 06:13:55 PM »

Just in case anyone was thinking of visiting Tempsford Stained Glass, they are actually in Bedfordshire, quite near to Sandy (in a village called Tempsford) just off the A1, not in Nottingham!
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Moira HFG
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« Reply #12 on: May 05, 2015, 08:38:41 PM »

You can use 50/50 solder, but if you want a nice raised solder bead you'll find it easier with 60/40 (that's tin/lead)

60/40 is molten over a smaller temperature range, so it's less likely to drop through the copper edges leaving you with a flat seam on top and blobs on the back.

50/50 is fine if you want flat seams, or have big gaps to fill, or are working with lead.

Great article on soldering here:
http://www.inlandcraft.com/howto/pdf/htsold.pdf
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