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Author Topic: new oxycon, very loud ?  (Read 3642 times)
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Sheena
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« Reply #15 on: March 27, 2014, 05:06:14 PM »

Hi,
Really glad you posted this..... I also got my oxycon within the last few weeks from Tuffnells.  Hubby walked in and said " I thought you said this was quieter than the hothead!"
This being my 1st one I have no clue how loud it's supposed to be. I do know when it arrived it was on its side.
Sheena
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Anthony
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Mango the parrot likes shiny beads!


« Reply #16 on: March 27, 2014, 05:18:27 PM »

Hi,

Martin will sort you out.

He's da man 💃
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Shirley
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« Reply #17 on: March 27, 2014, 05:27:20 PM »

Sounds like he needs to sort out the courier!
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Val Cox Frit - Thai and Bali Silver 
Anthony
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Mango the parrot likes shiny beads!


« Reply #18 on: March 28, 2014, 03:49:23 PM »

Two goodies from postman today, my exchanged oxy and my new(ish) mini cc 🙌 😎 cool !
Top marks Tuffnells !

This one's named Divina and she's a lady don't you know 👸.

I downloaded a decimetre and Divina averages about 7-8 dB while the other one was 10-11 dB.
Certainly sounds a bit quieter though.

Now to set it all up and melt some glass 😷.

Wish me luck skipper, I'm going in ...... ✈
« Last Edit: March 29, 2014, 10:13:38 PM by Anthony » Logged
Anthony
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Mango the parrot likes shiny beads!


« Reply #19 on: March 28, 2014, 06:21:07 PM »

I didn't have time to light it but did attach the oxy so almost there.

Bit confused about the settings though ?

If it runs one turn back from full ( as per instructions ) with torch controlling flow to 4.5 LPM the red light comes on and stays on ?
2.5 turns back and the red light stays off ( amber is always on ).

Shouldn't the oxycon itself be set at 4.5 and torch wide open ?
The oxycons a lot quieter this way and the amber light stays off.

Or am I missing something ? Maybe pressure related ?
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Shirley
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« Reply #20 on: March 29, 2014, 02:24:42 AM »

It's a bit of a juggling act, I find, and everybody's set up is different. If your oxycon is quiet and you are getting a good working flame then go with that. Some of the reconditioned machines run with the light at amber a lot of the time, but if the oxygen coming through is doing the job then that's the main thing. If there is a problem the machine will cut out.

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Val Cox Frit - Thai and Bali Silver 
Dragonfire Glass
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« Reply #21 on: March 29, 2014, 03:23:42 AM »

I *think* the knob that's a turn back from full is the concentration of oxygen and what you control through the torch is the rate of flow, therefore turning the knob further back reduces the percentage of oxygen and you'll get a dirtier flame.

The red, amber and green lights are indicators for when the oxycon is used as a medical unit and indicates if it's safe to breathe for patients, so you don't have to worry about that.

People set their rate of flow at where they feel comfortable, some at 3, some at 4.5 - it varies depending on how hot or cool you like working.

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Glass by Trisha
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« Reply #22 on: March 29, 2014, 05:43:23 AM »

Thanks for posting this Collette. I set my touch to give just under 4 and short bursts at 4.5 if I need to as for  the amber light comes on if I keep it at that for any length of time. I use to worry about the dials but I think the more you get use to it the more you just adjust the mix to whatever you need to make magic Wink. Good to know I'm not gonna do any damage if it dose go amber for a while though.   

Trisha   
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Blue Box Studio
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« Reply #23 on: March 29, 2014, 07:40:59 AM »

Mine often goes amber, if I turn it low and go off for coffee, if it's too hot outside, if there's an R in the month; apparently it's not a problem unless you expect the thing to keep you alive.  I run my 4ltr at 4.5 most of the time and it's pretty quiet.
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tuffnell glass
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« Reply #24 on: March 29, 2014, 11:02:31 AM »

Hi ,
      I have just caught sight of this , had a morning off shopping.
Most if not all of the points made are correct but I will go over some again to make them clear .
The red , amber and green light are purely for medical use . The amount of time it would take us to disable them would not be warranted so we have always left them on . Amber warns of oxygen purity lower than 94% but this is only important if you are breathing the oxygen which we are not, the alarm is normally disabled again by us but only because every time you switch the oxy-con on and off it would alarm and really get on your nerves so its better we do that. Purity for torch use is still o.k even around the 90% mark so worry not about the amber and green light . Some units run always on amber , some on green and some jump about between the two, I know that Anthonys oxy-con was tested on a minor burner and ran on green all the time. Now that brings me to another point . I remember pointing out on a previous thread that the Mini CC torch is incredibly oxygen hungry(in my view) and that most 5ltr oxy-cons will only run a mini CC at maybe 80-90% of its potential so this could explain the erratic behaviour jumping from green to amber as the purity is compromised while the oxy-con is trying to keep up with the Mini CC .

Remember as well that your Mini CC is not meant to have a flame that looks or sounds like the hot head you previously used , this is a real common complaint when we upgrade customers to a minor or Alpha . The call us and say the flame is very small and not powerful enough but it doesn't need to look or sound like a hot head to melt glass , you have the oxygen to help do that for you .
The Mini CC torch is slightly different in the cone positions as well so don't go off the picture on our leaflet as that was a minor  torch that showed small clean white cones , the Mini CC has a bush like area around the cone area and looks very different.

I would recommend setting the oxy-con back to full , turn back one revolution as explained on the leaflet and turn on your Mini CC and increase your oxygen until the black ball sits at 4-4.5ltr per minute. Look at your flame and see if the flame needs any propane reducing , then try melting some white or crystal clear rods and see what reaction you get on the glass, remember you have two gases to juggle with and a bit of fine tuning to play with to get the perfect torch , the Hot Head has always been a on/off torch with very little thing to get it burning .

Thanks to all of you who have chipped in with the correct advice while I was away shopping and if I can offer anymore advice please call me .

Chees ,
martin
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Anthony
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« Reply #25 on: March 29, 2014, 11:13:02 AM »

Thanks guys, and Cheers Martin, that must have took some typing !

Still haven't had time to light the torch yet but will definitely play later.

T-minus 4hrs ..... for blast off.
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Blue Box Studio
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« Reply #26 on: March 29, 2014, 11:16:33 AM »


T-minus 4hrs ..... for blast off.

(If you get blast off, your flame's probably a bit big for making beads Wink just turn down gas and oxygen on the torch)
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Anthony
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Mango the parrot likes shiny beads!


« Reply #27 on: March 29, 2014, 03:31:38 PM »

WOW !!!

AMAZING !!!

I can't believe how hot and quiet it is. Its so hot ! and so quiet !
And so calm.
I always seemed to be rushing on my hothead due to the noise and fierce flame, not to mention it seemed to waste a ridiculous amount of gas.

My flames about 8.5"  long with candles about 3/8" and seems to be neutral.

I didn't make any beads just melted different glass rods to experiment.
My transparent was melting quicker than opaque on my hh.
Clear actually gets runny and workable ( if I knew how, lol ).

Thanks again everyone for all the advice setting up, got there in the end 😀.
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