kiln shelf wash.

sandmor1 · March 11, 2014, 01:40:32 PM

I took delivery of my new kiln this morning.

I am unable to start kiln washing the shelf as I am still awaiting delivery of a haik brush I ordered online but in the meantime,could someone advise me on a kiln wash problem I have.

I am aware of the need to give the shelf around 5 or 6 coats of kiln wash in all directions and I need to allow a few minutes between each coat but do I wash both sides of the shelf and can I use both sides of the shelf for fusing ?

Also does the kiln floor also need to have 5 or 6 coats of wash ?

Thank you

Sandra

qwirkyglass · March 11, 2014, 02:13:29 PM

You can use both sides of the shelf, but not at the same time

I would only coat one side at a time, as the wash does degrade with firing and as soon as it starts to chip up need to wash it off and start again. ( wash with water, treat it very much like bead release )
What kind if release have you got? Bullseye shelf primer needs more layers than 'battwash' if you use the same amount then you will get alot stuck to your glass. Also if you are using thinfire or similar as well you do not need as much primer. You must also think about leaving lines in your battwash, any texture will be transferred to the glass at full fuse.
Do not coat the bricks of the sides or floor with battwash or primer leave aunatural. But if you do find glass on the bricks after a firing gently pick it off / hoover it out.

Hope this helps

Flyingcheesetoastie · March 11, 2014, 02:19:32 PM

I've never liked the haik brushed myself, they seem to absorb too much liquid and end up applying too thick. I have a cheap 3inch wide, synthetic decorators brush!

sandmor1 · March 11, 2014, 03:25:30 PM

Thank you to both of you...

with regard to the wash/primer...I have no idea..I got an 8oz bag with my kiln (Skutt Hotstart Pro) It simply said apply 4 coats, leave to fully dry when it will turn white. Then use the ramp and hold for 30 mins..... Does any of that help ?

Haik brush...I guess I could have saved myself a few pounds (every little helps towards more glass) if I had checked first. But it is too late now. I will get a new brush the next time I am in the DIY store and compare them. Thanks for the tip.

Well, the brush along with a few other things I had ordered should have arrived with the kiln this morning. I called Warm Glass and after they checked with the carriers it was found to have been missed of the list . (I did ask the driver if there was another package but he said no) They are coming back with it this evening.

Sandra

qwirkyglass · March 11, 2014, 03:34:03 PM

i think you have battwash not primer then, bullseye primer is pink and normally says so on the packet.
Do not apply it in the quantities that bullseye and some of the posts on here suggest.
Up down and left right should be plenty. if your primer is in powder form, mix with water till about cream thickness.

sandmor1 · March 11, 2014, 05:57:15 PM

Thank you for your help

Sandra

Quote from: qwirkyglass on March 11, 2014, 03:34:03 PM
i think you have battwash not primer then, bullseye primer is pink and normally says so on the packet.
Do not apply it in the quantities that bullseye and some of the posts on here suggest.
Up down and left right should be plenty. if your primer is in powder form, mix with water till about cream thickness.

sandmor1 · March 11, 2014, 10:24:41 PM

If you feel I should leave the floor of the kiln "aunatural" should I cut a piece of Thinfire or fibre paper to shape and put that on it?

Sandra

Quote from: qwirkyglass on March 11, 2014, 02:13:29 PM
You can use both sides of the shelf, but not at the same time
I would only coat one side at a time, as the wash does degrade with firing and as soon as it starts to chip up need to wash it off and start again. ( wash with water, treat it very much like bead release )
What kind if release have you got? Bullseye shelf primer needs more layers than 'battwash' if you use the same amount then you will get alot stuck to your glass. Also if you are using thinfire or similar as well you do not need as much primer. You must also think about leaving lines in your battwash, any texture will be transferred to the glass at full fuse.
Do not coat the bricks of the sides or floor with battwash or primer leave aunatural. But if you do find glass on the bricks after a firing gently pick it off / hoover it out.

Hope this helps

June · March 11, 2014, 10:35:38 PM

I don't use kiln wash at all, just a piece of thin fire under the glass on the shelf or mould. Not sure why you would want to cover the kiln floor when using a shelf over it, to be honest?

Zeldazog · March 11, 2014, 10:54:51 PM

When I first got my kiln, I did put primer on the sides and base of the kiln - I don't know if I read it in the Skutt Manual that came with it, another kiln site or a general glass site, I cannot remember as it was some six years ago now - I put a couple of coats on at the time, but never repeated it.

I think the rationale behind it is if your kiln seriously overshot and your glass were to run over the edge of the shelf, it would help prevent sticking to the kiln bricks.

But actually, in all honesty, if your kiln overshot enough to do that, it would be at a temperature well above the usefulness of the batt wash/primer anyway so it probably wouldn't prevent the glass sticking, especially given the texture of the brick too.

It won't harm your kiln though, so long as you don't touch the elements, which I am guessing will be in the lid.

I wouldn't bother with the thin fire paper on the base, as it degrades to dust after a firing so you'd be replacing it all the time and needing to hoover the kiln out. If you use fibre paper on the base, make sure your shelf is still level, as fibre paper is, well fibrous and could be uneven.

sandmor1 · March 12, 2014, 04:00:04 AM

I have found all your replies extremely helpful. Thank you very much.

So..just to summarize...nothing on the base and use Thinfire on the shelf instead of wash....will do.

One more question, please...do you have any recommendations for wash for moulds.

I have seen a spray which is very expensive and needs to be used with great care because of the fumes.

There appear to be several different brush ons.

If I could just have some advice on these please.

Thank you

Sandra

SilverGems89 · March 12, 2014, 06:04:12 AM

You don't HAVE to use thinfire, it is extortionately more expensive than any kiln wash, so if you have a big kiln it will cost a lot to use thinfire for firings in comparison to wash! I use thin fire, but my max shelf size is 18 x 18 cm, so I don't use a lot!
As for wash for moulds, use what came with your kiln in the same manner it recommends for your kiln shelf, only your moulds will not need re-coating as often as the shelf as temperatures are not as high for slumping as fusing, so the wash does not degrade as much! Also make sure when you coat any moulds that you do not block any holes in them, use something to poke through while the wash is still wet (an old mandrel, toothpick, whatever you can find that fits!)

Flyingcheesetoastie · March 12, 2014, 10:02:11 AM

I've never batt washed the inside of my kiln but you should always coat your shelves on the top and sides. If you do it well and your using thin fire under the glass you shouldn't need to redo for several firings and it's the best protection against the glass sticking to your shelf and ruining it.

Thin fire is expensive but it saves a lot of time coldworking the underside of glass, especially if you don't have access to polishing equipment so it's a question of weighing up the costs. It can only be used once as has been said.

Mainly I think you just need to start playing with your kiln and getting to know it! You'll quickly start to learn what you need to include in firings and what is surplus.

sandmor1 · March 12, 2014, 10:17:40 AM

Terrific...Thank you for all the help, it has been much appreciated and I hope I can leave you all in peace now....for a little while at least.

My DH has been working hard in the garage since Saturday. Clearing out unwanted rubbish to make a space for "Samantha".

He has also completely rewired the garage as the wiring was nearly 30yrs old and he said it needed updating anyway.

So I hope to do my first firing tomorrow morning...Wish me luck...I am so excited..

Sandra

June · March 12, 2014, 10:41:34 AM

Creative Glass Guild do Papyrus paper which I believe is similar to thin fire and should last for a few firings rather than just the one with thin fire.

I also use thin fire for slumping but, as has been said, it is quite expensive. I may try kiln wash on my moulds at some point but thin fire has been fine for me so far

By the way, Warm Glass have some tekta clear on offer today, too

. You have to check as it is only some and not all the range.

Barnacle Bay · March 12, 2014, 11:01:00 AM

Oh great news, your baby has finely come

For coating shelves I use a thin 3inch wide soft brush, I have ditched my Haiki brush as it does hold too much wash (agree with the other comments on this one), and causes fine ripples, which will leave there mark in a project, and on some glass it is a swine to remove.

Do coat the top & sides of the kiln shelf and the floor, just for peace of mind. The thinfire paper turns to powder after firing.

When I fuse, depending on the project, and if I need a really smooth clean base (esp if its a clear piece of work where clarity is essential) I cut a piece of thinfire paper to suit the size of my project though I cut it sligtly bigger and place that ontop of the kiln washed shelf. If clarity is not an issue, then I do not use it.

best of luck and have fun!