Coloured mica powder

lemon kitten · December 19, 2013, 11:01:55 PM

Hello all.......my fusing journey continues...but I do gave some pressing questions.

1. I have now got some copper coloured mica powder. When I used PVA glue to mix it into a paste so I could make mica film I got HUGE bubbles. I understand PVA can cause this. What else can I mix it with to make a film and will not bubble when fired?

2. I am trying to source some mica powders that I can fuse in colours other than the metallics. Do you know where I can get them? There's lots on e bay.....but not sure if they're ok to fuse

3. Can I use Thompson enamels in fusing and if so can I mix them with a medium to apply to the glass, and if so what do I use?

I'm sure the answers to all this is here somewhere.....but I'm not sure where to look.

Thanks
Janey x

Zeldazog · December 19, 2013, 11:36:19 PM

Quote from: lemon kitten on December 19, 2013, 11:01:55 PM
1. I have now got some copper coloured mica powder. When I used PVA glue to mix it into a paste so I could make mica film I got HUGE bubbles. I understand PVA can cause this. What else can I mix it with to make a film and will not bubble when fired?

Liquid stringer was suggested in this thread: http://www.frit-happens.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=43175.msg667237#msg667237

Flexiglass was suggested in this thread: http://www.frit-happens.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=42958.msg665219#msg665219

Have you tried either of these yet? Or Fusing Glue?

Why do you need to make a paste - as in, what are you trying to do with it? Are you trying to draw/paint with it? Or are you just wanting a flat area of colour, so you just need it to stay in place whilst you layer the piece up? If its the latter, then you could watered down PVA - it's incredibly sticky, only a dot on a cocktail stick is needed of full strength PVA, so you could water it down quite considerably. I've read using hairspray to make powder stay in place.

I believe Thompson do different enamels, wherever you got them from should provide data sheets with their compatibility range. Float is normally around COE 82/84 (ish)

You can get mixing medium for powders and enamels, helps them flow, so may be too runny for Mica though.

Pat from Canvey · December 20, 2013, 07:33:53 AM

You can use gum arabic or my personal prederence, clove oil (from Boots the Chemist) to mix your enamels. Mix to the consistency that is suitable for whether you want to use an artist brush, (painting them onto glass) or an old fashioned nib pen for drawing lines.

flame n fuse · December 20, 2013, 09:20:07 AM

Tuffnell's Thomson enamels are from the range which is compatible with coe 104 glass. You can buy other ranges from suppliers in the US (and some in Europe I think). We bought a sample pack of the colours which are said to be compatible with coe 90 glass and ran a test fuse, and found that while most of them behaved OK, several of them were definitely not compatible. So I would be cautious about doing anything ambitious / expensive with them without testing first.
I'd be interested to hear of other folk's experiences of them.

Zeldazog · December 20, 2013, 11:24:21 AM

Quote from: Pat from Canvey on December 20, 2013, 07:33:53 AM
You can use gum arabic or my personal prederence, clove oil (from Boots the Chemist) to mix your enamels. Mix to the consistency that is suitable for whether you want to use an artist brush, (painting them onto glass) or an old fashioned nib pen for drawing lines.

Never thought of a nib pen, Pat! Thanks for that idea :-)

Glyn Burton · December 23, 2013, 03:47:33 PM

I too am a fan of clove oil especially for fine line work with a nib I went to the chemists and asked for 5 bottles (I was running a class on glass painting techniques) and the assistant said "its not really my business but if your teeth are that painful you should see a dentist"

Another useful binder for enamels and grisaille is vinegar , in Chartres we used red wine vinegar but i have found that malt vinegar works just as well. The trace sugars helps to stick it to the glass and the alcohol evaporates quickly, the dried enamel can be tidied up with a sharp point or stiff brush - handy for scraffito techniques.

Bluebell · December 23, 2013, 10:58:21 PM

Hi, I've just been trying to get info on how I can write on to glass and find this info fascinating!

Ideally, I'd like to do lots of words (preferably in black) on to fused pieces such as coasters, plates, bandle bridges etc. I've been looking at decals and I've only got snippets of info on the complete process.

Writing, seems to be the answer as I cannot find suitable decals and also I'd love to paint images so working with clove oil appeals to me.

Is this writing done on finished pieces, then popped back into the kiln, or can the writing be capped?

Can anyone point me in the right direction please?

Pat from Canvey · December 24, 2013, 08:39:05 AM

I've used Bronwen Heilman's methods to produce images and writing on beads. I bought this book http://www.amazon.com/Bronwen-Heilman-Vitreous-Techniques-Beadmaking/dp/B000M0MQLY to teach myself but similar methods can also be used for fused pieces. You write the text in reverse on clear so that when applied to a bead, enamel down, the words are in the correct orientation. A simpler method for flat glass are those techniques used by stained glass artists, see http://www.glassanddesign.com/ for tips. The absolute bible for this is http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Art-Painting-Glass-Techniques/dp/0684164655. I have a copy somewhere and am amazed at the prices now showing.

Text "Love is all" and on flat glass, playing around,

Glyn Burton · December 27, 2013, 02:34:31 PM

Hi Bluebell
I agree with Pat The Art of Painting on Glass by Albinus Elskus is the bible but difficult and expensive to get hold of. If you get some black tracing powder ( or grisaille powder) Reuche is the best make, mix with clove oil to get a nice ink consistency and write on the surface of the glass. If you are using transparent glass you can print out the text and tape it to the underneath to trace.
Clove oil is a non drying oil and can be fired straight away. Reuche colour will fire between 590 & 800C lower temps giving a matt surface and higher temps a smooth glossy finish.
Tracing/Grisaille is available in a range of opaque earth colours (it's used to put the shading on stained glass windows) but you can use the same technique for transparent enamels just check the firing temps.
A word of warning about the materials, tracing/grisaille is full of things like lead so when handling the powder wear a mask and clove oil will dissolve some plastics so store it in glass, the tiny jam pots you get with a cream tea are perfect, a good excuse to go out and eat one.