Glue for tack fusing

[Grody]

I'm currently experimenting with tack fusing 10-12 layers of 2mm Bullseye that are standing on their edges - think B&W ones in Liquorice Allsorts, but standing on edge.

I use Elmers for my fusing and, as this burns away so cleanly, I've been gluing these pieces together with full coats of this glue, and then letting it set hard into a block for 24 hours or so before firing. The results are pretty unpredictable - some are fine but some have started to separate slightly and look unattractive. It seems as if the glue is burning off before the tack effect takes place and, if the glass edge the layer is sitting on is less than perfect then the layer can tip away slightly before it attaches itself to its neighbour. This is using a cycle that peaks at 725C for 5m in my Hobbyfuser.

I am going to try just dropping the temp and/or time slightly but I wondered if anyone has used any other perhaps more radical glues in their fusing assemblies i.e. superglue, UHU, epoxy, whatever. Perhaps not a safe procedure but I'm just wondering if I can master this edge-layering technique by using a different, stronger tacking glue.

[♥♥Tan♥♥]

Have you tried wiring them together?

[Pat from Canvey]

Is there any reason why you don't lay them down and let gravity help you with the tack fusing? Or am I missing something.

[Zeldazog]

I think you'll find most glues will burn out way way before even tack fusing temperatures are reached.   Glue is really only useful for holding things in place whilst you load the kiln  and shut the lid.

Wiring could work as Tan suggests, or the way it is often done with pattern bars is to use dams - so effectively box it in.

Pats suggestion of tack fusing with the stack laid horizontally could also work although I am not sure if the glass will spread - you'd really have to stick to the lowest possible tack fuse.

[Grody]

OK, thank you for your swift responses.

Tan: I can't just picture the wiring procedure. Can you guide me on how this works? Are we talking about a 'wrapping' method - if so, won't this bite into the softened glass.

Pat: Doh! Why didn't I think of that? It may not be very easy though as these pieces are small, very fiddly and can differ in size in the stack (some stacks are all 8mm x 6mm x 2mm thick x 10-12 pieces, but some stacks contain various sized pieces, which may mean they want to topple over) but, Yes indeed, why not stack them up vertically once glued into a block with Elmers? This is for jewellery by the way.

Z: Mmm, I had also thought about using dams but with these damned (sorry) small fiddly pieces damming is adding more fiddle to the fiddle - but you are quite right that this might indeed offer another "fix". I had thought about perhaps using consecutive stacks, on their backs and then placed end to end with each other, with small scraps of Thinfire placed between each little batch as a separator. The outer ends of the assembled line of stacks would each then need their own mini-dam to contain it. Hmmm - need some smaller fingers! I also accept your point about the glue (any glue) burning away before the actual tack point is reached - which probably explains why some assemblies (with accidentally square edges to sit on) have been OK whereas others (with perhaps slightly wonky edges) want to peel apart.

Thanks again - more experiments needed.

[♥♥Tan♥♥]

Think of it more as a wrap and twist method, like doing up the bread bag with a twist tie. I have never done it but seen it done. It would bite into the glass but you could use a kiln paper cushion to stop that happening.

As Dawn has said after Pats suggestion that laying it down makes sense but it could well spread.

Could you make bigger stacks and cut them down?

If not damming is the best idea by far.

[Pat from Canvey]

I've tack fused quarter inch strips together in a stack, 6 strips high. using ordinary PVA white glue to keep the strips together while loading the kiln. Here's one lot of fused strips cut into blocks before firing on their sides.

This particular lot were not very precise as they were originally cut for making beads. I cut the blocks using an ordinary household tile saw. Later experiments, I stacked 17cm square pieces of Bullseye (6) and cut up into blocks using the tile saw.

[balnakeilglass]

I went on an extreme fusing course last year at the glass festival with Tanya Veit and she recommended using hairspray as a glue and I have found it works really well and burns out cleanly. You have to use the hairspray which comes in a pump bottle,not the aerosol - any cheap type will do_ and transfer it into a fine nozzle glue bottle. The hairspray will last for ages and is really cheap. I have found that Elmers does not always burn away cleanly.

[♥♥Tan♥♥]

Such a great tip, thankyou

[Grody]

Hi - just a quick follow-up to say that the dam-ing (damming? but not damning!) did work - along with a slight drop in temp - so this has thrown up a new thread of design options for me. It was flippin' fiddly and >not< for those lacking in patience but it works and I'm grateful for all your input!

[Barnacle Bay]

I've tack fused quarter inch strips together in a stack, 6 strips high. using ordinary PVA white glue to keep the strips together while loading the kiln. Here's one lot of fused strips cut into blocks before firing on their sides.

This particular lot were not very precise as they were originally cut for making beads. I cut the blocks using an ordinary household tile saw. Later experiments, I stacked 17cm square pieces of Bullseye (6) and cut up into blocks using the tile saw.

Agree with Pat this is what I do too