stringer application

dunkster · November 28, 2011, 12:25:48 PM

hi guys - i am trying to improve my stringer application for more detailed work i.e scrolling and fine lines. i feel that i am comfortable with dots. Anyway, i have read that the stringer is introduced from the right of the flame and when the very tip is glowing then it is in the "sweet spot" ready for application. Also it says that the bead sits underneath the flame. the trick apparently is to move the bead and not the stringer. the stringer has to remain at that "sweet spot" position.
I have tried this process and i am stuck as to what has to move toward each other in order for the application. If i move the bead to the stringer it brings the bead into the flame and the stringer ends up dragging the beads (now liquid) surface about.
does the bead have to go from under the flame to the right of the flame but under the stringer?

no idea if this makes sence to you guys but its the one area i am very poor at. As i said dots for pettles etc. is fine, its the detailed stuff thats the problem.

One last thing - who is the ideal person to have a lesson with on this subject as there is money in my bead fund for a lesson or two. I am from Gloucestershire so somewhere not too far away is preferable. cheers -

Redhotsal · November 28, 2011, 12:39:08 PM

Hmmm....it's a bit like trying to learn to drive a car from written instructions, isn't it? You've got the theory of it right but to be honest there's no substitute for actually watching someone do it.
Is there a local meet up round near you? You can learn lots from just watching someone else work. Or even see if you can get to the Flame Off.

A couple of tips: I can't work from the side of the flame at all - even though that's the way the BEST stringer people work. I turn the flame down a bit and place the stringer right at the top of the flame in the sweet spot that is at the top. You don't want the tip to actually glow much - just make it glow a little. You won't actually be in the flame at all - but at the bit where the flame appears to have disappeared. Hold the stringer there and feed the stringer down as it runs out. As soon as you leave this sweet spot you will be stuffed. Pretend you are a sewing machine and this is the needle.

Bring the bead up behind the flame and touch the bead to the stringer. Never drape the stringer, push it physically onto the surface of the bead. If the stringer starts to glow it is too hot - turn down the flame or go higher up. Move the bead - like the bead is the work in the sewing machine. You have to move the fabric but the needle stays in the same place. Once you "get" that concept it is easier. Hold the stringer exactly where it is. As you run out of stringer you will unconsciously pull further down into the flame. Make sure you maintain your position. Actually your bead is not directly in the flame but is just behind it as you look at the flame.

I teach - but I'm in the midlands. There's bound to be someone closer to you but make sure they are good at stringer work before you book a lesson and don't be afraid to ask. I advise people to pick a teacher based on whether or not they like the beads that the teacher makes. It's wasted money if you pick someone who is local but who is not very good when you get to an intermediate stage.

Hope this helps.

MadelineBunyan · November 28, 2011, 12:40:32 PM

for fine and straight line stringer work, Lorna (Pixie willow) is fab, my stringer has improved tons since my lesson with her. and you'd get even more out of it on a one to one basis, I was in a class.

some good tips here http://www.jcherrell.com/stringerjoy.htm

Laura Sparling and Mindy McGregor (Moogin) also do fab stringer work, though offhand I dont know if they teach or where they are

heres a video by Laura http://www.youtube.com/user/beadsbylaura#p/u/3/Eei0n8z_1uc

Helen G does beautiful detailed work, does teach and is based in Devon.

I'm sure other people will be along with recomendations, there are certainly other people who are good at this, and who teach! these are just a few quick ideas

Margram · November 28, 2011, 01:13:07 PM

Meanwhile, make yourself a biggish flattish bead in, say, black - make a heap of thickish black stringers and practice, practice, practice. You can keep melting the dodgy stringer lines in and start again!

Helen G · November 28, 2011, 05:02:40 PM

Thanks Madeline although I have to admit my stringer work is a bit hit and miss $:-\$
Laura Sparling works like Sal and turns the torch right down and uses the "sweet spot" at the top of the flame and suggests to use a combination of moving the bead and the stringer

I did a course with her in Bristol once and mainly use her method myself.

Les · November 28, 2011, 05:19:01 PM

it also helps to start practising with the transparent colours, as they're a bit stiffer and easier to control ... I find the blues, darker greens and black are the best and most forgiving colours to use

HTH

mizgeorge · November 28, 2011, 05:26:01 PM

I know Laura teaches occasionally, either at her studio or yours. Lorna's just up in Leek - which is an easy run up the M5/M6 and definitely teaches. Mindy's quite a long way away (up in Scotland).

And another Gloucestershire person!

Les · November 28, 2011, 05:28:22 PM

It's always worth dropping Lorna a line, but she's just about to move house and relocate to Burton on Trent ..... (hope she doesn't mind me posting on here), so she might not be immediately available .... although, if I were you, I'd be prepared to wait ... she's a fantastic teacher.

ARBeads · November 28, 2011, 05:34:43 PM

And I'm doing the happy dance, 2 lampworkers in Burton, It's going to be a thriving industry round here. Guess which class I'm saving for in the New Year.

Les · November 28, 2011, 05:37:51 PM

helbels · November 28, 2011, 07:19:32 PM

I couldn't get my head round the "move the bead not the stringer" thing at all (it's a bit like parallel parking for me!) - i still can't do it that way!

I found Corinna's Secret of Stringer Control video very helpful, and also Laura Sparling's free one on her website.

Madam Steph · November 28, 2011, 07:27:24 PM

Having had a one to one with Lorna 4 weeks ago, I can confirm she is a great teacher.

I'm booked in for another in the New Year

Linda x

ScarletLeonard · November 28, 2011, 08:10:10 PM

Dunkster, are you on a hot head or a duel fuel torch?

It took me ages to find the stringer sweet spot on my hot head because the flame is so bushy and you can't see it all through your diddies.
My tip would be to hold your stringer completely outside the flame and just above the spot where you normally melt your rods.
then slowly bring the stringer closer until you find that perfect area.

My stringer work isn't exactly great and I find it much easier on the minor (I don't have mine hooked up yet but if I use someone elses torch I can do stringer work much more easily.)

It's all PPP it happens in the end, not usually when you want it to but you will get your AHHH! moment.

Redhotsal · November 28, 2011, 08:57:16 PM

Yep, the hothead does make it harder to find the sweet spot - and also a hothead flame can actually physically push the stringer upwards making it a little harder to control.

Meant to also add - make sure your bead is "sticky hot" - i.e. the surface is hot enough for a stringer to stick. If it isn't, even the most well aimed stringer will just slide off.