Any tips for first time - would be slumper please!

[Trudi]

Ok - so I've managed to successfully fuse2 bits of glass together - coaster size.


SNB17647 by Glittering Prize - Trudi, on Flickr

And I was thinking about trying slumping - I have tried it yet, just wanted a couple of pointers please.

These are just over 10mm square - this mould is just a tiny bit bigger
http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/Shop/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=389
would this slum ok in this? (I have found a slump schedule on Warm Glass)

From the bits I've read - some moulds like certain washes. I have some kindly given to me by Sean (Off-Mandrel) and I don't know what make it is - although it has worked just fine when I've brushed it on my bog-standard  tiles – would it be ok in this mould?
When I've coated the tiles – I've done 4 coats in  different directions – do I need to do more or less on the mould – and do you know how many firings it would last – (and how can you tell – I pushed my luck with one of the tiles and it now has glass fused to it  - not a big problem as I have a stack of tiles, but I don't want to ruin a mould!).

Any pointers really appreciated!

[beadysam]

I have a decent sized kiln sat there and some scraps bought for fusing - but never done it!   Any info would be interesting to me too.

[Trudi]

It's nice to have a go Sam - especially when you've already got the expensive bit of kit already! I've only got an SC2 - but it's fine for me!

[Zeldazog]

Trudi, I have used the same kiln wash on my moulds as I do my shelves.  The only time I have heard of a different seperator is with stainless steel where you can use something called Boron Nitride, but that's all to do with kiln wash (not) sticking to the surface of the mould, which isn't an issue with ceramic ones.

In all honesty, I can't remember how many coats I gave my moulds, but the *Bullseye slumping tip sheet* (on that same page) states five, so I guess I did that at the time.

I've had my slumping mould for at least two years, probably nigh on three, and that is the only time I have ever coated it!  According to the tip sheet, they are good for many firings if there are no chips or cracks.  They say they have used one set for over 30 firings without the need to re-coat.  I don't know how many times I have used my slumping mold, probably not quite that many yet - but it is certainly still sound.

I am assuming (hoping!) that, like when a shelf needs re-coating, it will be obvious - it certainly is with my kiln shelves, as the you can see the base colour - however, I am wary that the mould is the same creamy white as the kiln wash, so I inspect closely! If it is like a kiln shelf, it will flake off in spots, not disappear all at once!

Remember that a slumping mould goes to nowhere near the temperature of a full fuse, and this is why the kiln wash will last a lot longer.

HTH

[beadysam]

It's nice to have a go Sam - especially when you've already got the expensive bit of kit already! I've only got an SC2 - but it's fine for me!

Well its certainly not big, but its a decent sized JenKen and I love it. I'd get a fruit bowl or something similar in, or a set of coasters etc

[Trudi]

Hi Dawn

Thanks for that - I was just wary about the firings as I only got 2 firings out of the tile before glass stuck - but perhaps it's due to the material??? (It was a std house tile - nowt special!).

Would that mould be ok do you think??

And I'm still going to keep an eye out for the courses you'll be running!

Come on then Sam - get fusing with me!

[Zeldazog]

Sometimes I can get two or three or more firings out of a shelf full - but the last lot that have gone in the kiln, the kiln wash has come off (and on the back of the glass pieces, GRR) on the first or second go.  

According to the Bullseye Shelf Primer tip sheet, anything over 788 will only last one firing - but I tend to do a plate, or coasters, and then do smaller bits in between the gaps where it has come off.  So it is quite normal to only last one or two firings, and that's nothing to do with your shelf.

When you say an ordinary tile, do you mean a glazed one?  Some ceramic glazes fire as low as 800 deg C, so fusing temperatures could actually cause them (the glaze I mean) to begin to melt...fine for bead annealing, but possibly too hot for fusing.  Although I would expect kitchen/bathroom tiles would be done with a stoneware glaze, so a higher firing one.

Personally, I would use a proper kiln shelf, just in case you had a low firing glaze on the tile - or whack the tile up to max in your SC2, and if the glaze hasn't melted, then you know its a high firing glaze!

Warm Glass sell a shelf: SC2 SHELF

[elburnzo]

thats the same mould i use in my kiln (SC2 with bead door). I'm really lazy and just use the kiln paper stuff under the glass, never had any issues with slumping onto it. I've used a couple of other moulds to full fuse shapes and u do have to recoat after each full fuse as the kiln wash comes off but for slumping you can usually get at least a couple of plates etc done. I just use the standard bullseye slumping schedule tht is in the fusing section on here.

Sam i have a couple of moulds kicking about that i cant use as i messed up the measurements when i bought them and they're far too big if your interested.

I also have a star shaped pendant mould somewhere in the for sale section

[Trudi]

Superb, thanks for the info!!

I looked in the for sale and didn't see the mould!

[elburnzo]

hmm dunno what ive done then! its one like this.....

http://www.slumpys.com/WebImages/L_6076_4%20piece%20-%20Star%20Cube%20Tray%20-%20Fusing%20Mold.jpg

got it from slumpys in america, now i seriously got hammered on the customs for tht one lol but then i did buy loads

[Margram]

Trudi, I have a spare shelf if you want one to borrow for a bit .

[Trudi]

hmm dunno what ive done then! its one like this.....

http://www.slumpys.com/WebImages/L_6076_4%20piece%20-%20Star%20Cube%20Tray%20-%20Fusing%20Mold.jpg

got it from slumpys in america, now i seriously got hammered on the customs for tht one lol but then i did buy loads

I've never used a mould like this before - do you have to be careful about using different grades of frit? I would imagine if you start with a coarse clear you would then fill it with a finer frit as it would leak through?? So say if you want a clear layer on top would it be better to fill the mould with a layer of fine clear and then add your colours?

Can you point me in the direction of a fuse schedule for this - or would it be the same as a basic schedule I use for making the coasters? (I did look on warm glass but could see one)

and how much did you want for your mould?

[Trudi]

Trudi, I have a spare shelf if you want one to borrow for a bit .

Yes please Marg!

[elburnzo]

hmm dunno what ive done then! its one like this.....

http://www.slumpys.com/WebImages/L_6076_4%20piece%20-%20Star%20Cube%20Tray%20-%20Fusing%20Mold.jpg

got it from slumpys in america, now i seriously got hammered on the customs for tht one lol but then i did buy loads

I've never used a mould like this before - do you have to be careful about using different grades of frit? I would imagine if you start with a coarse clear you would then fill it with a finer frit as it would leak through?? So say if you want a clear layer on top would it be better to fill the mould with a layer of fine clear and then add your colours?

Can you point me in the direction of a fuse schedule for this - or would it be the same as a basic schedule I use for making the coasters? (I did look on warm glass but could see one)

and how much did you want for your mould?

the finer the clear frit you use the cloudier the finished item will be. however if you wanted a fully clear layer on the star it would probably be best to fill the mould with course clear frit and full fuse that first before adding any other colours just so the other colours dont leak through into the clear layer. as the frit melts it will fill all the gaps in between the frit and form a solid layer (a bit like melting chocolate in a bowl if that makes sense). yes for this mould your regular full fuse will do.
I have a leaflet on the various schedules which i got with the moulds which i could scan in and email you if you pm ur email addy? it also has tack fusing etc on it so would be pretty useful for other stuff too.

i was thinking of about £12 including postage for the mould? open to offers though as i've never seen these moulds in the UK