Glass Chemistry

[Andy Davies]

Thanks Guy's I'd like to support Tuffnells as they've been good so far with other stuff and thanks again Sally

Now I'm going to challenge the conventional wisdom. It's said that the higher the CoE number the softer the glass and I've seen that on the web, now as a general rule that might be right but in reality it can't be taken as fact.

(Remember what I said on the YouTube wind generator video, 'you can't believe everything you see on YouTube'  but it can be the same on the web in general, someone says something and it becomes law, well internet law.)

I've just cut up some  Clear CoE 90 Bullseye to compare it with the  Clear P&T CoE100 that I have and boy the difference is phenomenal. The CoE90 flows like soft butter, a real joy to play with.  With the P&T I'd been thinking that I was going to have to go onto a two gas torch to do any good.  When I see how folk on YouTube play with the glass I thought it was all down to the extra heat but it's not. Before I get blasted I know adding oxygen makes a big difference (I've done a lot of oxy-acetylene welding) but unless you've tried the P&T CoE100 glass  you may not know how stiff it is in comparison.
And remember I haven't any appropriate practical experience with other glasses.

I can't wait to get some soft glass as I think I'm really going to have some fun with it, it's a major step change, just like having the light switched on
            regards ... Andy 

[Andy Davies]

Just thought I'd let you know I've gone for it and ordered 4 ¼ Kg of mixed Effetre rods, opal and clear plus some mixed stringers on next day delivery, pity we can't magic it down the internet and get it now! (Kid-in-candy-shop mode) If it softens anything like the Bullseye CoE 90 I'll be over the moon, otherwise I'll be filling in more windows in the porch with it.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Regards ... Andy
   

[Nicknack]

In my experience it should soften a bit quicker than the Bullseye.  Not used any P&T, so can't judge.

Nick

[Pat from Canvey]

If I'm remembering correctly, Sophie is your MIL, in which case she may have some unused offcuts of Spectrum glass. A lot of the Spectrum is COE 96 and makes good glass beads provided you don't mix COE's. The transparent waterglasses made by Spectrum look particularly good when encased over a plain white opaque bead. I still have loads of Spectrum glass from when I made stained glass windows and have used some for beads. Cut into 1/4 inch strips they can be used as ersatz rods. Oddments can be held with small pliers. Another avenue for you to explore.

[Andy Davies]

As ever I've jumped in and done it and now I'm wondering... 'Do they do dichroic glass that's compatible with Effetre CoE104 ?'

If I'd have thought about it for 10 minutes longer I might just have thought it'd be a good idea to have just one flavour of glass in the workshop as I know I'll mix them up sometime but probably only when I've made the best bead ever, that'll be the one that cracks.

Anyway I'll just have to keep the 90 and 104 separated and ditch the stodgy CoE100

I always think that it's better to do something rather than nothing but I often jump too quick, but hey I'll be having fun tomorrow and if all else fails there's always eBay.
                     
                                      ... Andy

[Andy Davies]

If I'm remembering correctly, Sophie is your MIL, in which case she may have some unused offcuts of Spectrum glass. A lot of the Spectrum is COE 96 and makes good glass beads provided you don't mix COE's. The transparent waterglasses made by Spectrum look particularly good when encased over a plain white opaque bead. I still have loads of Spectrum glass from when I made stained glass windows and have used some for beads. Cut into 1/4 inch strips they can be used as ersatz rods. Oddments can be held with small pliers. Another avenue for you to explore.

Hi Pat
I'm not into text shorthand but I guess 'Mil' is teenage jargon for mother-in-law, you hip thing.

But for the Record Sophie is my beautiful partner of 22 years, as of today actually. She's my best friend in the whole world and is extremely tolerant of all my hobbies and I love her to distraction.

But it's Sophie's mom, Wendy who made to stained-glass/leaded vase you'll have seen and yes, Wendy did give me some glass that I've used as 'stained-glass' in windows. But I've got more left over. I thought given that it's not specifically for remelting  that each of the different colours would/could be different CoE's but I haven't tried mixing them (pulling two together) to test compatibility.   I guess they could always be used for single colour beads but that'd be a bit boring right now.

Do you have many CoE's in the work shop or do folk generally have a one CoE approach?
   
                                      ... Andy
   

[garishglobes]

I think... that the P&T glass is probably (additionally, given the age, this is likely) really formulated for the furnace. It is possibly a more  concentrated colour than glass that would be used for flameworking, which makes it stiffer?

Bullseye, I believe, is formulated to 'run' quicker despite its slightly lower COE. I have however found some Bullseye colours to be difficult to work on a Hothead because of the flame atmosphere - pinks particularly are prone to greying. Bullseye rods can also be quite shocky, especially some of the opaques!

I'm sure there is a dichroic glass that is 104-compatible.

[JanieD]

Do you have many CoE's in the work shop or do folk generally have a one CoE approach?
   
                                      ... Andy
   

At the moment I have COE 104 glass (Effetre, CiM and Lauscha), Reichenbach COE 94(+/-2), Gaffer COE 96 and Boro rod for punties.
I make sure I keep them all labelled and separate though.


Jane

[hopejacare]

I bought some dichroic strips from Devardi in USA that is 104coe

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321175609743?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I have diff manufacturers but all 104 coe rods (just a bit of frit that is diff coe's)

Cheers Claire x

[Andy Davies]

At the moment I have COE 104 glass (Effetre, CiM and Lauscha), Reichenbach COE 94(+/-2), Gaffer COE 96 and Boro rod for punties.
I make sure I keep them all labelled and separate though.


Jane
[/quote]

      Hi Jane, all understood,  how to you find the difference in pliability between types of glass (or I guess to put it another way which is the quickest to melt) 

    Regards ... Andy

[JanieD]

I don't notice that much difference between COE 96 and COE 104. I love the colours that Reichenbach and Gaffer produce, and as the frit I have is mostly COE 94/96 it means I don't have to worry about limiting the amount of it in a bead.
You can use COE 94/96 frit on a COE 104 bead, but you have to stick to 5% of frit on the bead's surface in case of incompatibility.

Gaffer Robin's Egg blue is one of my favourite colours. Caroline (Beadbug) sells this glass on her website - http://www.beadbug.co.uk/




Jane

[Nicknack]

You can get 104 Dichro, but it doesn't play nearly as nicely as the 90, and, to me, always looks disappointing.  Mind you, I do a lot of fusing with Bullseye and dichro.  I find it very difficult not to burn the 104 Dichro when making beads, but if I use the 90 Dichro with Bullseye rods it works much better.

Nick

[Pat from Canvey]

I have all the 104 makes, plus Spectrum and Gaffer COE96, boro, bottle, and float. This bowl was made with cathedral stained glass.   and this is a float glass heart, and bottle glass,
I am a cheapskate and don't like to throw any glass away.

[Andy Davies]

I have all the 104 makes, plus Spectrum and Gaffer COE96, boro, bottle, and float. This bowl was made with cathedral stained glass.
I am a cheapskate and don't like to throw any glass away.

OK Pat, I never throw much away, I get my inspiration from bits and pieces around me, at least that's my excuse.

     ... Andy   

[michelle5181]

Hi there,

If you have glass that needs striking would you do it before or after if you want to encase it?

Many thanks,
Michelle