Wire loops in dichro pendants

[Bluebell]

Hello
I was in a shop today which sells all sorts of jewellery and they had a cabinet with dichro pendants.  I noticed that instead of glueing a bail on the back the artist had slipped in a silver (I presume sterling silver) loop to the top of the pendant, then added a jump ring.

I have just started glueing bails and and the other day, one pinged off (has been glued for about 6 weeks)! Had used the E460 so I'm starting to think along the lines of preventing this from happening and the wire loop looks pretty secure.   

I have tried to have a look through this forum to find any tuts or info on how to fit these - but no luck so far.  Can any of you share any info on this?  Do you know if I can buy these loops already made up? or would I have to make them?

Any info would be much appreciated!

[bluefairy]

Just make something pretty from wire and "sandwich" it between 2 layers of glass flower

Et voila!!!

(I realize this is a hanging, but the principle's the same!  )

[Bluebell]

Thanks,

I take it that you have to use Sterling Silver.  Will that withstand the heat of a full fuse?

[Funky Cow]

I think it becomes very brittle - maybe fine silver??

[Zoe]

Hi

I have done something similar but used fine silver, as apparently this does not need so much cleaning up.  I have not used sterling, so cant tell you if this is true.

Best of luck

Zoe

[Bluebell]

Sorry......I'm not so clued up on this.   Do you mean fine silver as in Metal Clay?  I've only been doing this for a few weeks and I'm still at the very newbie stage! and still getting to grips with all the technical terms!

I'd be very pleased if you could tell me exactly what the product is and where I can get it.  I could make something up in Art Clay silver, but I do only torch fire at this stage.  I only use the kiln for my dichro.

[Zoe]

Hi Bluebell

I just use fine silver wire (not PMC).  You can get it from Palmers metals or cooksons and it is 99.9% silver and I just bend it into shape with pliers and fuse it between the glass.  I dont have any photos to show you but you could basically do whatever shape you want.

Hope this helps
Zoe x

[Bluebell]

Thanks Zoe

I've just checked Palmers website.  Is it this one that you mean?

Code: FS-RW100
Description:
1.0mm diameter Fine Silver Round Wire. 99.9% silver, soft condtion.
Base Price:  £3.39 (Exc Vat) 
£3.90 (Inc Vat)

I notice that it says" soft condition"  Once everything is fired will the loop be strong enough i.e. not bend or mark easily?

[Zoe]

Hi Bluebell, thats the one.

You can work harden it by hammering it, but it really depends on what sort of loop you want to do and what effect you want. 

Hope this helps, I am sure someone more experienced would be able to offer a more eloquent explaination.

Zoe x

[Bluebell]

Hi,

I've now got the fine silver wire and I'm about to have a go at "sandwiching" the wire in the layers.  One thought that crossed my mind though - when I've been using stringer and other bits that I've sandwiched in, and its all nicely glued together before firing - somehow during the firing, the glass cap slips to one side and basically the piece has to go in the bin.

I'm still very much learning as I go along, but I'm thinking that this has got to do with a degree of wobbling of the glass once the glue has burned off.  I don't think this will happen so much if the wire loop (having two ends) will help distribute the weight of the glass on top of it. 

However I wanted to made little cabs (about 15mm square) and join them all up together with wire loops and jumprings or other beads.  Could I have a single wire running through the middle leaving 1 cm overhang at each side for me to make loops?  Or will this just create a big wobble and the glass slip to one side?  Or is it better to just slip in a loop at either side of each cab?   

Thanks!

[bluefairy]

Hmmm, tbh, I reckon you'd prob find it easiest having a loop each side, at least it would be balanced then x

[llewennog]

A fuser/slumper I know rolls a piece of firing paper and then puts a thin sheet on top of the piece shes firing, when they are finished they look like theyve been mandrel wrapped! 
  At least I presume she does, she wont actually tell me, says its a  trade secret PMSL!

[noora]

I've tried both sterling wire and fine silver wire. Sterling wire can stain and turn black, which the fine silver wire won't do. The fine silver can on the other hand turn white. I'm not sure how to prevent the wire from turning black or white, but I think it has something to do with how long it is in contact with air once it gets warm, or perhaps it depends on what glass colours you use.

Both wires become very soft and can be brittle after heating, so handle the wire with care.

Some glasses also react to silver and turn muddy or do some other unexpected tricks. If you're using Bullseye glass you can find lists online of which colours react with silver.

[Dennis Brady]

A fuser/slumper I know rolls a piece of firing paper and then puts a thin sheet on top of the piece shes firing, when they are finished they look like theyve been mandrel wrapped! 
  At least I presume she does, she wont actually tell me, says its a  trade secret PMSL!

Three simple ways to leave a hole in a fused project:

1.  Wrap "thinfire" kiln paper around a round toothpick or piece of copper wire.
2.  Heavily kilnwash a round toothpick or piece of copper wire.
3.  Leave a thin strip of ceramic paper between the pieces of glass.

If you use a toothpick, it burns off and leaves nothing but white ash that is easily blown out.  Kilnwash sometimes needs some work to clean out.  Copper wire is easy to remove by putting an end in a vise and pulling on the other end with pliers.  Pulling the wire stretches it.  As it stretches, it becomes thinner and will easily pull loose.

Ceramic paper is available in 1/8" and 1/16" thick.  Cut a square strip 1/16" or 1/8" square and set it between the pieces to be fused.  After firing, it will easily push out and leave a perfectly square and perfectly clean hole.  A 1/8" square holes is the most popular because it will accommodate a cord or even relatively large chains.  Most artisans sell them either without cord or chain (or with a very inexpensive display ribbon) because most all customers already own a variety of chains then can use.

A caution ...... creating holes this way often creates spikes along the edge of the top glass where it contacts whatever was used to create the hole.  Firing about 10 degrees lower then usual and about 10 minutes longer.  Alternatively, expect to spend a few seconds on each hole with a dremel to remove spikes.  Nothing is needed inside the hole.  It always comes out perfect.

FWIW, we produce a huge volume (thousands) of cabochons with the ceramic paper method for sale to artisans that use them to make jewelry.  This method works so efficiently (done only in otherwise unused kiln space) we can sell dichroic cabs for as little as  $2. each. 

[turnedlight]

Just a thought, I thought fine silver wouldn't work harden?
I don't know anything about fusing, but I thought if it seems too soft, maybe you could make it into wrapped loops before use and also, you could try hammering the part that is sandwiched under the glass a bit flatter, so that the top layer of glass isn't sitting on a rounded piece of wire? Just a thought as I said, it may not be any good for you..