Looking for info schedules for a full fuse, tack fuse and slumping for 104

[Jolene]

I am looking for some kiln schedules for 104 glass - I have an SC2

I am looking for info on how to do a full fuse with 104 to create micro mosaic murrini and I am also wanting to do some slumping and tack fusing using 104 sheet combined with sections of rods.

Can anyone help?

Also, has anyone else done similar with 104? What are the drawbacks with slumping/fusing 104 compared with Bullseye or similar?

Thanks, Jo x

[Veebee]

Sorry I can't help but I would like to know too! 

[Flyingcheesetoastie]

I would have thought the drawbacks really are the availability and colours of 104 sheet, the rods aren't a problem as we have them coming out out ears but I've not seen that much 104 sheet over here.

The other issues you might have is the softness of the glass, which will effect the kiln programme but also I've found when fusing the 104 that it sticks quite effectively to my battwash.

Temperature wise I've not gone above 750 with it as it seems to full fuse at that temp for small bits quite nicely.

If you give me an existing programme you have for a SC2 then I can rough out a few for you?  I don't have one but should be able to estimate.

[robert@daftforcrafts]

Hi Jolene
I am very interested in combining lampwork and kiln forming and have been testing 104 rods in the kiln over the past week or so and have had the same problems Rachel has had with the battwash sticking. I am concentrating on solving the battawsh problem before I look at refining the firing schedule. I have progressively stiffened the battwash and am now testing 65/35, kaolin/alumina hydrate mix which is in the kiln tonight.
I have been speaking to Martin Tuffnell about bringing in a wider range of 104 sheets, but would like to know if you know of any other suppliers of sheet 104.
I hope Rachel (the kiln whisperer) will come up with a more definitive 104 schedule.

Robert
@daftforcrafts

[Flyingcheesetoastie]

Sure, got some samples of sheet for me to test with?    Plus I have a Schott fetish at the moment...

Besides, It'll be in cone language if I use my little top loader!

[theflyingbedstead]

This is a useful thread - thank you all!

I have just purchased some clear effetre sheet from Martin to play around with slumping...so thank you for the warning about the battwash Rachel. I'll be trying thinfire paper (as that works lovely with my Bullseye murrini)...or does that stick too?

[julieHB]

If you are looking for 104 sheet glass these guys have a lot to offer:

http://www.hobbyland.it/eng/

[Flyingcheesetoastie]

I haven't tried the thinfire but I think it's just that the glass is so soft that it melts very easily and at a lower temp that other sheet glasses.

If I get some time, I'll have a play in little blue kiln!

[theflyingbedstead]

Thanks Julie - I haven't come across that site before.  They sell all sorts of stuff!

[julieHB]

I know 

[Flyingcheesetoastie]

MUSTN'T click link, have feeling it might result in credit card exposure......arghhhhhhh! Ooooooh glasssssssssss............

[theflyingbedstead]

...too late! 

[Zeldazog]

I did some fusing with 104 murrini, I will have a look back at my notes (I think I did actually write this lot down as it was for Uni!), but I think I did a full fuse at around 750, and think you could do lower.

Like Rachel, I got sticking, I agree that its because it's soft and melts early,  

Annealing, well, you anneal your beads at 520 - 500 usually if I am correct - and a standard Bullseye fusing schedule will include an anneal cool from 517 to 371 at 83 DPH.  So that should cover it, I would think!

So, personally, I would use a standard fusing schedule, but with the top process temperature vastly reduced - I'd probably try at 700 if I was looking for a tack fuse, or a bit higher if I was looking for a full fuse.   I know that sounds low, but you can always refire a bit higher if it doesn't process enough - once it's blobbed, you can't go back!

Jolene, I don't know that there are any drawbacks to using - there's still a risk of devitrification, but I am not sure that  it would be any different to Bullseye.

You have a wealth of colours in rod form, although I don't know what you'd get out of reactive and reducing glasses, as its the flame working that makes this happen a lot of the time I think?

The advantages I suppose, are that you already have lots and lots of lovely rod colours, and what a way to use up those shorts.....

[Flyingcheesetoastie]

It was the shorts I ws thinking of playing with, I've been looking at that website and calculating price for sheets in comparision to other glass and it seems very expensive so there's not enough of a draw for me to add yet another COE to my flat glass usage!

The clear came in at around £42 per/m2 excluding VAT and delivery from my calculations.

[Dennis Brady]

I am looking for some kiln schedules for 104 glass - I have an SC2

I am looking for info on how to do a full fuse with 104 to create micro mosaic murrini and I am also wanting to do some slumping and tack fusing using 104 sheet combined with sections of rods.

Can anyone help?

Also, has anyone else done similar with 104? What are the drawbacks with slumping/fusing 104 compared with Bullseye or similar?

Thanks, Jo x

It responds at about 50 - 75  deg F lower then Spectrum.  
Slump at 1125 - 1150, Tack at 1275 - 1300, and Full Fuse at 1375 to 1400.

If you have any reliable success fusing 104 I suspect you'll be the first ever to do so.  Fusing is CONSIDERABLY less forgiving of incompatibility then torching and all the Italian rod glass is infamous for the compatibility variances.  Many artisans have even abandoned it for torching because of its unreliability.  It's pretty much useless for fusing.

Here's a glass artist that fuses murrini.
http://www.winchestergalleriesltd.com/artists/munsen/1/index.php
He accepts the inevitability that about 50% or so of all firings go to the dumpster because of incompatibility.  When Mel told me that, I didn't believe him.  My old-fashioned Irish stubborn skepticism kicked in and I had to find out for myself  Turns out he does way better then me.  My failure rate was closer to 75%.  Bloody expensive lesson before sense overrode stubborn and I abandoned the experiments.

If you want to fuse, stop using 104 and switch to either 90 or 96.  You can then make torchworked elements (flowers, birds, etc.) and then tack fuse them (without distorting the elements) to flat glass.  We do this routinely.  Here's the firing schedule to do that with COE 96.

1.  400 dph to 1000F hold 20
2.  1200 dph to 1300F hold 5
3.  FAP to 960F hold 60
4.  400 dph to 300 OFF