I thought I had already posted this question but it hasn't appeared so forgive me if this is a duplicate.
I have downloaded the operating manual for the controller for the Hobbyfuser3 to give me a headstart when it arrives.
I read that a kiln shelf is not needed and if one is used shelf posts beneath are not necessary either. I was under the impression that all fusing (apart from melts etc) should always have an airspace beneath the shelf and Kiln floor.
Any advice on this would be helpful as would anything else on the Hobbyfuser as I have only ever used Skutt Hotstart.
Thanks
Sandra
Hi,
I've had a hobbyfuser for about 4 months now, before I used my SC2 for small fusing. I use a kiln shelf in the Hobby Fuser but don't use any legs to create a gap like I did in the SC2. I've not had any problems, others may have different views but I go with the manual's advice.
It's very exciting, waiting for it to arrive (and also frustrating)
enjoy when it arrives.
K
I've had my hobby fuser for about a year now. Always use the kiln shelf on the small legs supplied. When I'm slumping I always support the mould on the legs too to allow the heat to circulate below.
Not had any issues so far.
Hi I am new to this, my wife has just bought a hobbyfuser 3 kiln but is struggling with the controller, she is not sure which programme she needs to use for tack fusing and full fusing. Anybody be able to help.
Hi Rob, just checked the handbook that came with my HF3. Programme 3 says that it is a bullseye 6mm full fuse and it's pretty close the one that I use. Mine has a longer soak at segment 1 as I find that for me a longer bubble squeeze worked better. My process temp in segment 2 is also slightly higher at 800 degrees. But it's a full fuse.
For a tack fuse I have a very similar program but lower the process temp in segment 2 to 750.
I have to admit I have changed all of the rest of the programmes on my kiln to match what I do most often.
Hope this helps. If you want to have a chat offline drop me a PM.
Mark