Thanks for all your help with my newbie fusing in an SC2 question - the kiln is now cooking it's first pieces; nothing fancy, first attempts at cutting glass and very basic.
I didn't buy Bullseye stringers to go with the glass - I had to stop spending somewhere. I know Bullseye is COE90, so does the 5% rule apply to fusing as well as making beads? I have some COE100 glass rods I could pull stringers from (as well as the usual COE104) and lots of frit which is COE92-96 according to the labels. Just wondering whether I could use a little - or not? I was also wondering about silver leaf, silver wire, copper mesh and some mica I have for beads.
If anything vaguely presentable comes out of the kiln I will share - otherwise I will hide it under my bench and pretend this conversation never happened! I think I've worked out why PVA glue is useful, didn't have any and had to rearrange things after I'd moved from one studio to the other, no room to cut in my bead studio.
Hi
I don't think the 104 will work ... When I tried 104 dots on 90 in lampwork it cracked even with tiny amounts. For the others I would advise some test pieces
I got away with some unknown glass seed beads sandwiched between two layers - some fused okay so must've been a near coe, some fused inside but looked crackled. I think the only reason it all held together was that it was two pieces of 3mm sandwiching only half a dozen seed beads.
Whenever I've tried anything incompatible on top, it's pinged right off before even coming out of the kiln. I think you can probably get away with the 5% rule in lamp-working because you are getting the glass so much hotter and therefore the glass is 'mixing' more - I don't know. You might get away with the COE 92, as strictly speaking Bullseye is not necessarily COE 90 - it's all tested compatible, which is about more than just the COE. There's info on the Bullseye site somewhere, but essentially, it is why the manufacturers withdrew the COE 90 from their description of the range
As Trudi says, test a bit. As for silver leaf, wire, mesh and mica, you should be able to use all of those as inclusions, I've got some mica powder to try, been told it comes off if placed on surface.
PVA is great for transporting stuff to the kiln, I usually ask students to use it in my classes, otherwise it's me doing all the re-arranging later on! But really use the tiniest amount Sue
Thanks for this. Might try a few bits and see what happens then. And I'll be spare with the PVA - usually, if I'm gluing something, I get it everywhere and in my hair but have seen pics of a small brush in use, so have dug out the small brush, more control.
I got so excited and added up the hold times and thought this might be a bit quicker (so impatient) - forgot it has to crank up to each of the times and no amount of watching is going to make this a quick fire. Started at 5pm and think it is nearly up to end of the end of the first stage .... might just get to turn off the kiln and leave it to cool naturally by the time I go to bed ::)
Ah I can help here a bit with the mica, I have tried all sorts with the stuff and it really does seem to burn away most of the time I have now come up with a mix that really looks rich and 'there'
I have a little pot, about the size that comes with cough medicine bottles to measure the stuff out.I picked these up at a car boot they come wtih little lids but you can use an old frit pot. I put a good squidge of pva in the bottom, about 1.5 times warm water and then generous amounts of mica. PUt the top on and shake shake shake.
It all settles out so shake before use, it lasts ages. When you go to apply it don't brush it on, this just thins it out, I tend to dob it on and smoosh it about. Yes Dob and Smoosh are technical terms.
Brilliant, Tan, thanks for that. I have some little pots with lids that will do fine for this. I'm good with dob and smoosh, along with dibby-dabby and squish. I seemed to buy a lot of glass but when I got it home it all looks a bit samey, am sure it's not really!
I accidentally put a 40 x 2 mm stringer made of 104 glass in a 30 x 30 cm plate made of bullseye. 2 weeks after making it, it cracked neatly all the way round the stringer
Sorry :-( might try some 90, but just as a trial to see what works and what doesn't.
I was taught never to mix different brands of glass for fusing.
I've even had problems with using float from different batches, that exploded in the kiln :-(
Rachael
Quote from: RLBrown on October 28, 2014, 09:26:46 AM
I've even had problems with using float from different batches, that exploded in the kiln :-(
Yup, although float will be made from a similar formula, there is no *need* for it to be compatible as it's not designed for fusing; even if you buy from the same glass supplier, there's no guarantee it will play happily in the kiln (although it often does) - with float, you can only guarantee compatibility if you cut from the same sheet.
I added a couple of tiny pieces of murrini to one of my Lake District scenes and that cracked, so I'd stay clear of different CoEs, even under 5%, for fusing.
I use tiny amounts of ValCox frit on some of my fused pieces as I like the colours. So far I've not had a problem. If I need to get more effect I use Bullseye Frit as it's much cheaper but only comes in plain colours rather than mixes.
I was with someone recently who was using Effetre Murrini and you could see the cracks all round the Murinni.
Mark
I once used a couple of eye murrini (104) I'd made in a fusing piece (owl eyes) for my aunt. There are cracks around the eyes, so I wouldn't do it again, but my aunt loves it, and it hasn't cracked apart.
Nick
When applying glue, I often use cocktail sticks. Same with E6000, then just throw the stick away after.
Thanks everyone, I'll go back to basics then. First attempts at cutting glass (other than rods) and fusing looks ok, will find a photo, and the kiln is still in one piece!
Lol, it' s nice to see other peeps hot footing around the house trying to bide time until the prezzies are ready in the kiln. Sometimes, I'll put some on overnight just because I can't bear to wait, it's such a joy flying down the stairs and leaping over to the kiln as if it were chrimble ;D
I use Elmers to keep the pieces stable. Usually pop a small splodge onto a rail ticket or similar and, like Pat, I use a cocktail stick to apply it really sparingly. It's not marked a piece yet.
I used a bit of 104 stringer by mistake and ruined a fused piece. But I've also had problems with Bullseye opaque rods - they're not always suitable for fusing - aaagh!
You can buy Bullseye blends from Helen Blue Fairy on etsy.
Kazx
According to the Bullseye catalogue, there are T and F glass, and this seems to make a difference. Think T is for torch and F for fusing and some T will F and some F will T but you have to spot the * to know.
Thanks Kaz - will explore this evening - more frit, who would have thought I'd find a way to get yet more frit!
Quote from: Blue Box Studio on October 29, 2014, 11:52:45 AM
- more frit, who would have thought I'd find a way to get yet more frit!
Watch out, Sue, this could be the start of a very slippery slope...................104 frit.................90 frit..............96 frit................boro frit.................dichroic frit............. ::) ;D ;D
Nick xx
Can't have too much frit, Nick ;) (although have just looked at my bank account and now need to stop spending even a penny (legs crossed) before 1st November when my pension should just cover the bills! I blame my holiday ::) )