Hi
I do some fusing but not much - and I don't have a problem normally when cutting - but I'm usually cutting from smaller bits of glass.
Recenltly I bought some sheet glass 3mm 25x25cm - some cut ok (not brilliant) and some did not break along the line. I checked my cutter on a smaller piece of glass and it's fine.
Is it more tricky because it's a bigger piece of glass?
I'm using plastic running pliers - http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/Shop/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=284 and a toyo cutter http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/Shop/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=275
any tips appreciated!
Trudi x
Trudi, are you standing up when you cut it?
yes
And are you cutting from the middle of the sheet i.e. the first cut down the centre of the sheet, the next down the centre of one of the ensuing pieces etc? Link here - see point 3: http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/Information/Studio.aspx :)
Are you cutting long runs of thin strips? If so them maybe a small fault/air bubble/inperfection will make the cut run to the nearest edge. Could you cut the big bits into smaller bits before cutting strips off?
It's harder to cut a long inch strip off a big bit than it is to cut the big bit in half. It's like electricity and water, the cut always takes the shortest route!
I used to do stained glass and cutting big bits is easy but smaller bits I hated!
Hope that helps
Jessie
I have a similar problem cutting glass. I check
1. standing up and bearing down with all my weight. Trying to make sure I apply continuous pressure
2. enough oil on/in the cutting blade
3. I am using a cutting mat
4. it's making the right kind of noise when I am moving the blade
(5. no ones looking when I do it ;))
HTH
Hi
I'd bought a sheet of effetre glass 25x25cm - and I was wanting to make my own streamers and fractures (instead of buying the pre-made BE ones). I thought the 104 would be good as I have loads of murrini and shards and can pull stringers .
I was trying to cut the glass into 4 10x10cm bits with a small off cut (Ideal for pendants). I just wasn't getting clean cuts like I do with smaller pieces. I thought perhaps the glass was thicker - it's 3mm so I tried cutting a smaller piece of 3mm BE - worked fine. So then I wondered if I need better running pliers??
I'm glad it was only plain glass and not expensive (I'm still managing to use it for the dicro tabs I'm making for stringers - so no loss) but I'm glad I didn't order a big sheet of patterned glass and ruin it.
I just want to understand what I'm doing wrong ......... Dawn I'm going to have to write myself a wish list for one of your classes. I'd really like to start understanding it all a bit more!
PS - I have just topped up the oil, and have a cutting mat (couldn't cut without it).
I haven't done much cutting or fusing to be honest. Just over a year ago I went on a basic fusing course which covered the basics as I have an SC2 kiln. So it's not big time fusing I'm after, but might as well make the most of the kiln and I've enjoyed the bits I've done so far and love the coasters/candle mats.
All good tips here, and honestly not sure what the answer is. I haven't used Effetre sheet glass, so I don't know what it's like in terms of texture - the more textured it is, the harder it is to cut - but Bullseye colours are hand-rolled too, so that's not necessarily the problem.
When you say you're not getting clean cuts, do you mean it's going off line, or its just got a nastier edge?
To be honest, I don't use cut runners on large pieces, unless it's a strip off the edge. I find the following two ways more effective:
1) Take score line to the edge of your cutting mat/carpet edge so that one half is hanging over the edge - so there's a height difference. Press firmly with the flat of your hand on the bit that has a bit space behind it (on the lower side). This only works if your score line is really good and clean.
2) (and my preference) Flip the glass over. Place your thumbs ON the score line, one in front of the other, normally about an inch apart.
On a surface with give, press down. Honestly you won't cut yourself, if both your thumbs are ON the line. If it's a really long cut, you can do this along the line in several places, working from one end to the other.
Effective cutting is something that takes time, and some colours are easier to do than others - I dislike cutting Bullseye white for example, it never plays nicely for me.
One question, Trudi - are you trying to break the glass AS SOON as you've done each score line?
Hi thanks for the replies
Dawn - the break starts off ok then at one end I get rough edges.
And yes I do break as soon as I've scored!
In that case, I'd suggest you try one of the other breaking methods - cut runners are only applying pressure at one end, which where I presume it's okay - by the time you get to the far side of the glass, they aren't really applying the same pressure anymore - at least, that's what I would guess.
What about the good old HIIIIIYAAAAA karate chop method? Shatters it to a squillion pieces but its sooo satisfying to make that noise
if you could record a little clip and post it on youtube Tan, that would be great, you know so we can see how it's done ;D
I use the morton safety break and can really recommend it, http://www.tempsfordstainedglass.co.uk/acatalog/Accessories.html, it's good for strips and curves and makes a really clean cut.
However, I have a sheet of bullseye black that defies all attempts to cut clean strips so sometimes you can definitely blame the glass :)
Quote from: Tan on October 06, 2010, 06:17:18 PM
What about the good old HIIIIIYAAAAA karate chop method? Shatters it to a squillion pieces but its sooo satisfying to make that noise
Tan did you go to the Hong Kong Fooey School of glass cutting - I like your style crazy woman!!
And thanks for the info Diane - I shall investigate later when I'm fully awake! It could be partly the glass but I do wonder if it's also because it's a bigger area and my pliers are only basic ones - which have served me well thus far!
Thanks guys for all the tips - you're all great!
Are you going to Di's open day tomorrow Trudi, if you are I could bring the morton thingy with me for you to see how it works. I also have a different style of running plier that works well.
Diane - you're a treasure!
I am going tomorrow!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: Trudi on October 07, 2010, 08:19:00 AM
Diane - you're a treasure!
I am going tomorrow!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
I'll add it to the growing list ;D
I would post a tut on you tube but sadly I'm all out of glass ::)
and have a poorly hand xxxxx
Another time - it would be a smash hit! ;D
The effetre sheet is an absolute pain to cut as it's got many flaws to it as well as the 'grain' from where it's been blown. I've given up on running pliers for strips in favour of score and thumb on reverse. I have experience in cutting full antique glass too but this has stones in and all sorts of hazards.
I did wonder whether the issue was partly down to the glass itself, but I hadn't tried it personally.
Glad I am not the only one who uses thumb on reverse method!
Phew - at least it's not me!!
As I don't cut loads of glass I thought it was either me, or it's different cutting larger pieces of glass!
When I get a chance I will try the thumbs! And Diane is bringing her gadget to Di's tomorrow so it will also be nice to see that in action!
Thank you everyone for your input - you're such a great crowd! ;D
Yes that has been very helpful, thank you.
I am learning using Bullseye and I find it goes funny. I suspect that still need loads of practice but it's good to know it's not always me!! ::)
I've mainly been using BE - just wanted to be smart with the effetre as I had lots of murrini and shards in 104!
Not sure how big you are going Trudie. The best way I find for large sheets is to place the sheet over the edge of the table, press the table side down firmly with fingers spread. Grasp the overhanging side about 1/4 of the way down using just your palm and fingers (do not wrap your thumb round). Press down firmly. Afraid this wont work for thin strips.
We've got a cutting tips sheet on our site at the following link if it's any help?
http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/Downloads/Public/Products/Tools/Improve%20Your%20Cutting.pdf
Pippa
I never used oil in the 15 years I was making stained glass windows. You only have to clean it off afterwards. Metal running pliers are better than the plastic ones and especially the ones where you can adjust the "gape" by means of a small screw to account for the different thicknesses of stained glass. Have a look at the Leponitt ones.
Krysia, You might like to search out http://leadandlight.co.uk/shop/glass.php based in Hartland Road, Camden, London. They also used to have a big sandblaster you could hire by the hour.
thank you
I shall have a look at that later. I have a silly survay to fill in for work. For a second time!! (It timed out last time ::) )
(
here's a question What would you most like to see introduced or START happening at "the company" or in your immediate work area?
reply: HEATING
)
It's probably already been said but I woudl also suggest going down a local glazier and getting some scrap float glass to practice cutting on too, if I have a tough shape to cut I always try it in the same thickness float first before wasting expensive glass!