I have read the tuts, scanned the www for info until i am nearly cross-eyed but when i tried to strike raku dots yesterday they just would'nt do much. I had one (rather nice) bead crack in half which i think was due to me cooling and reheating whilst trying to strike the raku dots. I am working on a HH with propane and many of the tuts that i have read give instructions for striking raku using oxy mix - is it harder to do with propane?
How long should i strike for and where in the flame?
If anyone knows of a vid on YouTube that shows how to strike raku could they post a link here please.
Not to burst your bubble, but you might struggle on a hothead. I'm sure I read somewhere that it works better if swirled, and I know it has to be got really hot. There's a tutorial on here somewhere - think it's called something like 'secrets of raku revealed', although it might be on Lampwork Etc.
Thanks Shirley ;)............i am off to search for the tut.
My bubble is a bit flat anyway so don't feel bad about breaking the bad news! LOL
I am afraid Shirlay is right. You have to get the raku so hot it glows almost white (and this is the difficult part with a hothead!) - then shock-cool it (blow on it, use a cold tool,...) so it gets darkbrown. Then you can start striking as usual. As long as it isn't darkbrown, you won't get any beautiful colours.
The tut is on LE in the Tutorial Section.
One more info: Raku 104 is much more difficult to strike than the old Raku 94-96.
Quote from: afina on July 30, 2008, 08:48:00 AM
One more info: Raku 104 is much more difficult to strike than the old Raku 94-96.
Oh dammit.
(bangs head on computer desk weeping softly)
Thanks
afina ;)
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20601&highlight=raku+revealed
Don't be disheartened. There are loads of fun things you can play with on a hothead. You can get some great reactions with different colours, and if you start adding silver leaf it opens up a whole new world.
Is 104 harder to strike? I hadn't realised. I'm on a hot setup, and I find I get 104 too hot sometimes, never have the problem with 96. I never get such bright colours with 104 though.
Granny, Caroline got good colours on a HH. It's not really a true striking colour, it's a glass blower's colour that does odd things when lampworked. You are trying to "stress" the glass so that it reacts, not like gentle striking of reds or oranges.
It's best not too thick, so swirling helps. You need to get your bead as hot as you can. Long heating. If you're applying it by rod rather than frit, you can pre-work the tip of the rod, pulling stringers or just getting it drippy hot before you apply.
Then cool the bead quickly as Verena says. Then reheat quite aggressively. Once you achieve the dark brown you are one step away from purple, but repeated heating/cooling produces a range of colours.
Don't give up yet, play and see what happens!
MARY..............you are an angel, thank you. I am about to start another session so i will try it again.
:)
I think you can manage raku on a HH, you just need more patience! I read somewhere on lampworketc that you should let the bead lose its glow before reheating - put it just under the table top so you can see the glow go?
Also you might be able to help it along by the choice of glass you put it with - Effetre nero intense, cobalt blue (?), possibly ink blue or very dark purple? I'd avoid Vetrofond black!!
Hi
I looked at the tutorials on Raku (thanks for the link), I have to batch anneal as I only have a smallish kiln without a bead door. Will this affect any colours from Raku frit?
Cheers
Lorraine
Quote from: grandmabead on July 30, 2008, 10:48:32 AM
MARY..............you are an angel
Yep, she's fab ain't she ;D ;D
Aww, thanks! Cheered me up after doing the ironing!