I made a batch of beads with spacers. The spacers are just clear and I'd forgotten how ugly the bead hole can be.
I clean them properly, proxxon and diamond reamer followed by some of Manda's silicone carbide on a mandrel, then some finer silicone carbide and I finish off with cerenium oxide (spelling might be a bit iffy..) They look crystal clear when wet but have a shadow when dry.
I tried some clear nail varnish and it works but what a mess...is there a more professional and less messy way to eliminate this haze?
Some oil in them works well - run it through with a pipe cleaner.
Oil, yes... have you tried Renaissance Wax?
I have renaissance wax...need a pipecleaner maybe!
I use an interdental brush after I have done all my 'grinding' and thought that a pipecleaner might be better. Will defo give that a go. Someone said beeswax but I'm scared in case of allergy (I'm allergic to lots of stuff so very aware)
OK, this is how to get really clear bead holes in transparent, ream completely then use silicone carbide, I use 2 grades but maybe one would do. When there is absolutely no trace of anything left in the hole let the bead dry.
Use an inter dental brush and apply the tiniest amount of clear varnish. Just dip the very tip in the varnish, tiniest amount is all thats needed. I'm using a water based crafters varnish that I found buried in one of my many craft cupboards! I drop the brush in water straight away. Nail polish would also work but not so easy to clean up
Hi,
Is it the silicon carbide powder you use on a mandrel? Do you dip a dry mandrel into the powder and use it as a reamer?
Thanks Tony
Quote from: Tonyb on March 13, 2015, 12:32:36 PM
Hi,
Is it the silicon carbide powder you use on a mandrel? Do you dip a dry mandrel into the powder and use it as a reamer?
Thanks Tony
Yes, I use the coarse one that I get from Mango beads first (after reaming with the diamond reamer) Mandrel, wet dipped in the powder, good scrub and rinse. I have finer silicone carbide and do the same with that. I was using cerium oxide too but that may be overkill. The go for the varnish. Will post some pictures after the weekend, at a show this weekend
Something makes me wary of adding varnish etc to bead holes. It might discolour or flake off over the years? I find the silicon carbide does a good job on its own...
Have you tried working down though the grades of grit? I think I had Beady Sam's bead cleaning kit here (somewhere) that went down to a 600 grade pumice powder for the final polish, although it's a lot of work!
Quote from: Margram on March 14, 2015, 12:56:57 PM
Something makes me wary of adding varnish etc to bead holes. It might discolour or flake off over the years? I find the silicon carbide does a good job on its own...
but there is a faint powder like shadow when it dries as the glass isn't polished. So, in view of your very valid comments and because I dont like the faint shadow, if there is no guaranteed way to make the inside polished maybe I just should not make completely clear beads! This doesnt happen when there is silver or frit as the 'shadow just isnt noticable so maybe I carry on making non clear ones!
Quote from: Steampunkglass on March 14, 2015, 02:15:02 PM
Have you tried working down though the grades of grit? I think I had Beady Sam's bead cleaning kit here (somewhere) that went down to a 600 grade pumice powder for the final polish, although it's a lot of work!
No, just 2 grades of silicone carbide and 2 grades of cerium oxide, I also have pumice that I use in silversmithing. A spacer takes 10-15 mins to do my way and still there is this faint (very faint) shadow. It might be worth it on a larger bead but maybe I just rethink the spacers to not be clear!
various grades of silicon carbide do a pretty good job. Looking at my clear beads there are often microbubbles near the mandrel, and some roughness due to the bead release not being evenly applied. Shall have to try 'polishing' the bead release when making clear beads.
Quote from: flame n fuse on March 14, 2015, 06:13:07 PM
various grades of silicon carbide do a pretty good job. Looking at my clear beads there are often microbubbles near the mandrel, and some roughness due to the bead release not being evenly applied. Shall have to try 'polishing' the bead release when making clear beads.
Yes! sometimes its that the bead release is a bit uneven to start with.Generally i tap the un-coated end of the mandrel when the bead release is wet to even it out, it helps a bit!