Hi
As a painter I was taught to always sign my paintings when they are finished. Partly so you know who's word it is and partly so you know it's finished.
Does anyone sign their glass work? And any suggestions how would you do it with out it being intrusive?
TIA
Rachael
I noticed these guys had a pen for signing glass the other day:
http://www.meltinglass.co.uk/section.php?xSec=8&xPage=1&jssCart=95829af0e7934a2d704b5e181702a646
Claude (hubby) uses a liquid gold and makes batches of these sandwiched between 2 aqares of clear which he fires. He then adds one to each piece before its fired. on his home page you can see a piece that he has done this way www.claudeandreglass.com if its of interest I will get the name of the stuff tho I know it wasnt cheap I think he has been using the same one for years and years!
Two ideas already, thank you both.
The tool looks like a good idea for smaller bits.
I like the liquid gold idea for larger pieces so yes please to finding out what it is.
I wonder if you can do something similar with glassline pen?
I have one of the Titanium pens (from Warm Glass), but have not really managed to use it successfully. Any tips for use?
I got a titanium pen, no joy for me either. Scratchy scratchy, but it doesn't flow so I can't "sign"
Warm Glass sell the 24ct Gold pens, I bought one, not used it - that idea works great for art panels, although not sure if it would work on some of my own platters.
It is something I've been contemplating for quite some time though
How about taking a small clear square of the glass that you are fusing and using tracing black with an old fashioned pen. You'd have to reverse your signature of course so that when fused, the sig is legible. I've done this with beads, (http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1426/5604171/22750186/405202730.jpg) Write your sig on a piece of acetate, turn over, cover with your small piece of clear and trace the reversed sig with tracing black.
Claude uses Thompson Enamels bright liquid gold. He cuts a strip of clear then scores into the pieces he wants, signs each section and when its dry he just snaps them off. He simply stores till he needs a signature on a piece and places it face up on the last firing. 2grams has lasted years and he reckons 1 gram left and possibly has done at least 100 signatures (just his initials) from the bit used. Do it in batches though as there is always some residue that you lose, that way yoi get the best value
I hadn't thought about signing things, but now you mention it it's a really nice idea.
I have a Ti tipped scriber I might try - or could engrave a small logo.
We initial most of ours, using Glassline and a medium nib...
Chas
Even more ideas to play with. Thank you everyone.