Hiya,
Anyone know where I can get some door handle cabouchons or alternative fixings for mounting my fused glass dorr knobs?
Thanks
x
i dont know much about fusing but could you add threaded rod to the piece before firing ? the only glass knobs i have bought have had threaded rod and a nut to attach it
Yep that would work - why did you get them from?
Thanks
I found this site - there are a couple of types meant for fused glass:
http://www.dlawlesshardware.com/knob-making-bases.html
I think I saw some glue-on drawer ones on either Warm Glass UK or Creative Glass Shop.
I recently made 150 knobs for wardrobes and cupboards for a client (he's an architect) I flame worked the cabs and then bonded them on to some handles I bought from B&Q with DP460 (araldite will do). The handles had a satin finish, simple design and a flat top perfect for gluing on to. I recommend lightly abrading the metal and then cleaning the glass and metal with acetone before gluing.
Hope this helps.
That's a good one, Glyn! :)
Brill ideas - thanks everyone! x
Quote from: Glyn Burton on May 15, 2012, 06:07:15 PM
I recently made 150 knobs for wardrobes and cupboards for a client (he's an architect) I flame worked the cabs and then bonded them on to some handles I bought from B&Q with DP460 (araldite will do). The handles had a satin finish, simple design and a flat top perfect for gluing on to. I recommend lightly abrading the metal and then cleaning the glass and metal with acetone before gluing.
Hope this helps.
Hmmm now I am wondering if you could flamework directly on to them....
As long as it's not nasty plated stuff, Kaz - also, would need a flame thrower to keep it warm, I imagine.... :D
If you've made ring tops with a small nut, then equally you can use B&Q or Wickes nuts and bolts to bead onto. I've done it after soldering size M5 Hexagon set screw onto a copper base. I cut off the head of the screw before soldering. Treat the nut just as if it was a small one for a ring top and insert it onto a suitable sized mandrel. I've shown this picture before, (http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1426/5604171/22750186/401138483.jpg)
To give you some idea of size, the copper base is an 86mm circle. Screwed onto that is the large green bead which carries the tendrils. The glass used was Spectrum opaque COE 96.
Hi,
You would be able to buy threaded rod from most decent hardware shops. B&Q does it but there are cheaper suppliers. Again they should supply the matching nuts. I would have thought that if you can melt glass directly onto silver with it sticking and if the glass sticks to a mandrel so you can't get it off then there would be no problem using the threaded rod as a mandrel apart from the heat traveling along the rod. It's worth a try don't you think? If you wanted to make door handles for both sides of a door try melting the glass to one end of the rod then melt the glass for the other handle onto a nut this should work. You would probably need to have two nuts, one with the glass melted to it forming the handle then another to use as a locking nut. For example put the threaded rod through the door then put on a nut, then add the nut with glass handle. Once the handles are in the correct position then tighten the first nut against the second and this should stop the nut turning on the thread and undoing itself. I hope this makes sense.
Regards
Thanks Nick!
Kazx
I made these straight onto some nuts I found in DH's workshop - just put the nut in a rod holder and off I went. I think it is best to work with steel, though - some metals can give off nasty fumes.
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4022/4568178539_5209b0a2d5.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliehb/4568178539/)
Little knobs for little drawers (http://www.flickr.com/photos/juliehb/4568178539/) by JulieHB (http://www.flickr.com/people/juliehb/), on Flickr
Julie, you are so clever ... those are beautiful! ;D
The threaded rod is sometimes called stud bar it is available in a range of sizes and metals the commonest is galvanised steel which as Julie points out can release unpleasant fumes. If you want to work straight on to it then stainless steel would be the best bet, its not expensive to buy and it can be cut easily with a hacksaw. The nuts and washers can be bought separately M4 would be a reasonable size to try.