Hi, I want to make some beads in warm green colours, and I would like to play with layers of opaqe and transparent, adding twisties, lattichino, murrini and such, in short, beads with depth. So far my attempts have been ruined by the greens running together into a more or less uniform green goo - could you please advise me in which greens combinations are possible without the colours bleeding?
I have a reasonable selection of effetre, cim, a few reichenbach, kugler and lauscha - but not enough of each to try the endless amount of combinations possible.... ???
Kathe, Denmark
Try encasing the twisties first x
I got that, but does that mean that in a bead build up in layers, (opaque core, transp. encasing, various decorations in between and on top) that ALL layes have to be separeated by clear?
What about murrini, for instance - would I have to place a drop of clear underneath as well as on top of the murrini?
I find that difficult, that is why I am asking for non-bleeding greens..... ???
Kathe, Denmark
If you encase the twisties etc, that may help with layers, and murrini - if you are putting them on the surface then you'd just need to encase the last bit?
Hope that helps x
Maybe layering colours side by side rather on top of each other with transparent or clear in between the layers but even at that I find my colours do tend to blend together a bit, but think that's ok as long as the patterns stay there and there's different things going on in the bead! Maybe experiment a bit with a couple of colours at a time on a little bead to see what you like or making a tube to avoid waste. :)
I have not found an opaque green that doesn't bleed. My sister and I jokingly refer to that as bead fungus. You may get better results by working further out in your flame and cooler.slower. If you have a metal or graphite marver you can make the dot and while it is still just warm enough to be squished then push it flat with your marver. It will look like a little pancake on top of your bead. I will then go 180 degrees around to do the next dot, just to help keep by bead warm. Do all your dots all the way around so you have pancakes. Then gently heat and marver, heat and marver. You should be able to get the results you want. I used Lauscha olive green opaque for these beads, the rest is Effetre.
A couple extra notes: you may need to heat and touch with marver several times as you go around the bead. Keep your flame a bit more towards oxy rather than reduced to avoid soot on your greens. Make sure to work closer to the tips of your flame rather than closer to the candles. Almost all lampwork torches are surface mix, so closer to the nozzles will be a reduced flame anyway because there hasn't been sufficient time for complete combustion.
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n576/robinfosterfire/postcard.jpg)
Quote from: Trudi on December 30, 2011, 05:41:41 PM
If you encase the twisties etc, that may help with layers, and murrini - if you are putting them on the surface then you'd just need to encase the last bit?
Hope that helps x
Or, encase your greens before making twisties, etc. You only need the thinnest encasing layer.
Sean
Thanks for all the tips, I will play with it in the near future!
Kathe, Denmark
Quote from: Hamilton Taylor on January 13, 2012, 08:58:17 AM
Quote from: Trudi on December 30, 2011, 05:41:41 PM
If you encase the twisties etc, that may help with layers, and murrini - if you are putting them on the surface then you'd just need to encase the last bit?
Hope that helps x
Or, encase your greens before making twisties, etc. You only need the thinnest encasing layer.
Sean
I like that tip! A neat way to keep those troublesome colours under control :)