Hi,
I'm new to glass fusing and have recently bought a Hobbyfuser kiln, now I am needing some advise on programming my kiln controller. Is there anyway that I can find details of standard settings to use with my KCR1 for fusing float and also bullseye projects. I am attempting to tack fuse a square piece with 3 layers of 24cm long strips of 3mm float and also a few small copper foil inclusions. Any advise will be greatfully appreciated!!
Thank you
Donna
No idea about how to program the controller, but Bullseye normally full fuses between 795-816 degrees C, this depends partly on the kiln, how long you hold for, exactly HOW fully you want it fused, etc...
I generally add on 30 to 40 degrees for float processes
Every kiln fires differently, so you will want to experiment to find out exactly what the optimum temperatures are for your own kiln.
You can get loads of firing tips for Bullseye on their website tipsheets (http://www.bullseyeglass.com/education/#tipsheets) and loads of tips from Brad Walker's Warm Glass tips (http://www.warmtips.com/Cat1.htm)
Also take a look through the fusing section of the forum, there's loads of firing schedules there too for various glasses. You probably won't find EXACT instructions on how to program your own controller, but the principal (The firing schedule) is the same no matter what kiln you use.
Thanks for your advise, away to check out your suggestions!
Cheers
Donna
I have a hobbyfuser, love it ! Can I program it? Hell no ;D I have two programmes and everything goes in the same.
If you can tell us what controller it is someone might be able to help. If it's a Bentrup I can tell you how to do it.
Quote from: DonnaMarie2805 on March 21, 2010, 11:27:51 AM
Hi,
I'm new to glass fusing and have recently bought a Hobbyfuser kiln, now I am needing some advise on programming my kiln controller. Is there anyway that I can find details of standard settings to use with my KCR1
Isn't KCR1 the controller?
Hi,
Yes the controller is a KCR1 which came along with my Hobbyfuser kiln. I really don't know what to enter as every glass fusing book I look at is giving slightly different info from what I require for my project. I have cut thin strips of float glass and have layered them in an open weave with 3 layers of 3mm and included a few small copper foil inclusions in the top layer. I just don't want to make a mess of setting the controller now!!! Any advise on using the Hobbyfuser will be greatfully appreciated!!
Please help!!
Donna
You'll probably find that every fusing schedule you'll look at is different because they've been written by different people, for different kilns with different final results - you'll even find that two people using the same glass in the same model kiln will still do things differently. Some people will go hotter but with a shorter hold, some will fire at a lower temperature but with a longer soak, there are so many variables.
I follow instructions set out by Bullseye themselves for fusing Bullseye, but I often change them slightly as I know my kiln. I also fire far more conservatively than many people, as lost production time is not an issue for me.
Is it instructions on how to program your controller you need, or an actual fusing schedule?
If you're having difficulty converting a program to from fahrenheit/celsius, here's a temperature CONVERTOR (http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/index.php) - Remember RATE conversion and TEMPERATURE conversion are two different things.
If this is your first ever fusing, then it might be wise to start with a smaller project, simply fusing scrap layers of float glass together to see if the suggested temperatures, ramps and holds are suitable before you go ahead and fire a piece that you've taken time to cut and put together?
You might not consider it cost effective to fire an almost empty kiln, but take it from experience, its far more cost effective than ruining glass with a wrong schedule (two layers of 20cm square Bullseye colours, no practice schedule - cost to run almost empty kiln - about 50p - cost of two sheets wasted of Bullseye, about £15!)
And don't worry - if you DO program your controller wrong, you can reprogram it again....
Hi,
Thanks for your advise Zeldazog, I have a rough idea about programming the controller, but it would be great if anyone using the KCR1 can give me any info. Yes, it's the fusing schedule that I need advise on, the project I have set up is just float glass, 3 layers of 3mm. I get what you are saying about trying the kiln out, but as I have it all in place and can't move it now had hoped I'd get enough advise to give it a go!! It's the only way I'm going to learn! lol
Thank you
Donna
Well, I know nothing about that particular controller so I can't help you there. If you're stuck, I am sure Kilncare will be happy to talk you through it - but honestly, any of the variances you've seen in other float project schedules probably don't make a huge difference, until you actually get to know your kiln. The piece you describe isn't exceptionally large or thick in terms of requiring an extra long anneal IMHO, but as I said, I tend to err on the side of caution anyway with anything I do.
Just remember if you've seen a schedule for a full fuse, and you only want a tack fuse, you need to reduce the top process temperature.
And personally, I would fire at a lower temperature first - you can always re-fire (but read up about second and third firings, slower ramp speeds and longer annealing if you do) - a bit hotter if the first firing isn't enough, but if you fire too hot the first time, it can't be undone.
i have a kr1 ...its the one that comes with the bead cube (which i have ) and other kilns from kiln care ......if you bought it from kilncare get in touch with lee ...if you bought it second hand ...get in touch with him ..he is very helpful ;D
I agree with Dawn about using a lower temp first, you can always re-fire.
Any time time spent in testing the kiln is time well spent. When I first get a fusing kiln I use little stacks of glass, 2 or 3 layers of 1" squares and put one stack at each corner and then others in between. Do a normal fuse and then look at the results and you'll find the cooler places in the kiln.
Then do a couple of cycles with the glass you'll be using and try a cooler cycle with a longer hold and then try a hotter cycle with a shorter hold. You will soon get to know what is best for your kiln. Anyone can give you a fuse program but it doesn't guarantee you'll get the same result from your kiln.
YUP, I will always help out it's true.
However, the question here seems to be more about what values to put in than it is where to put them.
The values to put in would be better answered by our glassy arty-farties 8) on here.
If it is that you have the values but cannot get to grips with where to put them, then you need to speak to a techy-geek like me for that one.
I use the EZ fuse software for estimating/testing fusing schedules - http://www.technicow.com/EZF.html - It works out schedules based layers/coe/size and covers the majority of kilns and their programmers and gives you exact programming instructions, if you go to their website you can download a trial copy. I've found this invaluable. Nina
Yes and the lads behind the program were adding our kilns to it 2 years ago!!!!!!!!!!! and still haven't!!!!!!!!! >:( >:( >:( >:(
Here at Creative Glass Guild in Bristol, we have a hobby fuser which we give demonstrations on, simply bring your KCR1 Controller in and we will give you a lesson, install some programs and show you the ropes to build some confidence. Just give us a call to arrange a time. http://www.creativeglassguild.co.uk
For those a long way from us, we can talk you through by telephone. Its an easy to use controller once you know how.
I like it. Good idea.