Hi, can someone give me an idea what I'm doing wrong. When using effeter dark sky blue (and opaque purple for that matter) I'm getting a greyish gun metal silver colour on the surface of the bead as if its reducing. I thought that maybe I had my flame set wrong so I checked the flame with the tip of a rod of triton to see if it reduced but it didn't, which I thought would mean that the flame is neutral, or is this just wonky thinking? It would be grat if someone could give me some idea of what I'm doing wrong, I'm sure it must be something blindingly obvious!
Thanks
Tamsyn
It is reducing - often happens in the kiln. It's not an easy glass to work with but you can remove the grey layer by soaking the bead in Cilit Bang (grime and lime) or Cocacola for an hour or so.
Quote from: Redhotsal on January 21, 2010, 01:04:15 PM
It is reducing - often happens in the kiln. It's not an easy glass to work with but you can remove the grey layer by soaking the bead in Cilit Bang (grime and lime) or Cocacola for an hour or so.
Doh! beat me to it Sal ;D ..... Yes what she says :D
How high have you got your regulator?
If it's open too far you get more reduction, you also get more heat, heat is good, reduction on some glasses is not good. Sorry, this works on the hot head, but don't know anything about other torches, obviously you control the O:P mix on the torch then.
When you held the triton in the flame to see if it reduced, did you heat it up first? I tried this the other week with a selection of 'black' rods I'd left out. It needs to be warm before it reduces, won't happen if you stick it in cold. Again, is this obvious, I'd hate to preach something that eveyone takes for granted anyway.
Thanks for the advice guys. I tried pepsi as that's what was in the house but it didn't seem to touch it, don't have cillit bang so I etched it and that did the trick and it looks nice with a matt finish.
I heated the triton first before reducing it, I'm only just starting to use silver glass, bit scared of it! so your quite right to highlight that point magpie.
I hater being a newb, there's soooo much to learn!
Any glass that easily reduces is a bit of a challenge on the Hothead. I have a lot of problems with blues and greens in general - many of them go silvery coloured. I find I have to really focus on working higher up in the flame, which helps.
Actually you can etch the grey off and pull it out before it goes matt. I believe the silvery deposit only needs about a minute and you can still have it shiny. You'd need to practise a little to get the timing right.
I've been making beads for over ten years and there's still new things to learn everyday. For me that's what makes it all interesting. Though - I agree, there does seem to be such a lot to learn all at once when you first start. My advice is don't - just learn at your own speed and don't worry about what everyone else is doing. It's much more enjoyable that way!
I also think with learning, we all have different areas of interest! So that will guide you on what you practise!
Thanks for the tip about etching the gross bit but keeping it shiny Sal, that's definitely worth remembering.
I guess learning is all part of the fun! ;)
I didn't know Triton had to be warmed first. Do you mean warmed as in on top of a hot kiln? Or just wafted through the flame a bit? How warm?
Enquiring minds need to know!
Carolyn
Waft it thru the flame a bit first. It won't just reduce from cold - but then again no reducer will reduce from cold either.
Conversely - it won't reduce while it is too hot - so heat and then let it sit for about 10-15 secs and then reduce. Nothing will reduce if ot's still glowing. Hope this makes sense?