....to use for clear glass tiles. I use Tekta and it always ends up with seed bubbles and I really need to produce crystal clear glass tiles. Otherwise doe s anyone know of a UK supplier of these tiles?
Many thanks
Quote from: Glamglass on November 15, 2009, 03:00:17 PM
....to use for clear glass tiles. I use Tekta and it always ends up with seed bubbles and I really need to produce crystal clear glass tiles. Otherwise doe s anyone know of a UK supplier of these tiles?
Many thanks
All Bullseye and all Spectrum clear will have some bubbles. You can minimize but not eliminate. If you want to create optically clear tiles, you have 2 options:
1. Use clear float glass.
2. Fire to 2000F with a long hold to boil out the bubbles.
Is normal float a bit green tinged?
I have not fired to that high as yet!! Would hate to burn down my studio!!
Thanks for the advice though
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Is normal float a bit green tinged?
Yes, but that's only apparent when viewed on edge.
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I have not fired to that high as yet!! Would hate to burn down my studio!!
Other then the small hobby and jewelry kilns, most glass kilns can safely fire to 2000F and ceramic kilns to 2400F.
Thanks Dennis. I think I will give the high temperature a go as I tried to do a bubble squeeze with no luck.
I hate the green in the float!
Try "Greenhouse" glass (I am sure there is another name for it, but it escapes me right now) - is almost same as float glass, but not made on molten tin, so doesn't tend to look so green. I used some and it came out pure clear.
It was some stuff I got from my local glass merchants, who make their own. There's a few out there who do it.
I found that if I cleaned green house glass and polished with paper it become really clear when firing. THEN DO NOT PUT FINGERS ON IT AS YOU WILL HAVE GREAT FINGER PRINTS IN WORK. like i did recently.LOL
Cut clean and decorate hold from the sides.
Green house glass for 2 foot square sheet is a fiver in my local glass shop, ;D
it is really good to experiment with just keep a kiln log of how long you fired and, how hot ;D
Hope that helps.
Dianne ;D ;D
The best glass I have found is the Bullseye clear not the cheap one.
I did actually go to my local shop and found that it did not react hardly to a normal full fuse, so I guess it must need a higher temperature to get soft edges!!
Will see if they have any of the greenhouse stuff!!
Thanks
I normally full fuse at around 840c, so a fair bit higher.
Are you using inclusions, or how are you decorating them? If no inclusions, you could try wit 6mm glass, harder to cut, but you absolutely will NOT get bubbles then!
Quote from: Zeldazog on November 16, 2009, 10:55:59 AM
I normally full fuse at around 840c, so a fair bit higher.
I did mean I fuse FLOAT glass that high! About 40 degrees higher than Bullseye.
Thanks I just want them for clear glass tiles and I would like them to be as clear as possible. I will have a go at the higher temperature and see what happens!
I bought some Artista but I am still trying to get the full fuse temperature right! Does anyone have any firing schedules for this type of glass?
Try a search of Warm Glass forums (http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/index.php) (the american site), you might find some info on there.
I fuse Artista to a temp hotter than bullseye but not as hot as float. It's not as soft as BE, it seems a bit stiffer and doesn't move as much if you know what I mean
I'm a bit wary of giving out schedules as everyones kiln is different but I tend to hold Artista longer at the fusing temp eg 805C for 25 minutes for good rounded edges.
Thanks for that! I went hotter than that but for 10 mins and got more of tac fused edge, so I hav increased again to about 850 for 10 mins and will find out in the morning if it worked or not!!
Ok no good.
I have tried again at a slightly lower temperature and longer soak and still no good the edges are spiking up. Does that mean I need a lower temp?
If anyone can help I would be really grateful.
Spiking up can often be caused by too thin a layer of glass - how thick is your glass?
850C is rather hot for Artista and that could make it spike on the edges. I never take even float above 840C and generally it's more like 813C.
Try it at around 810C for 25 mins. It obviously depends on your kiln though
Are you using a freshly kilnwashed shelf? Sometimes it can stick a bit if you've fired it a few times. You could also try it on kiln paper as that would give a good finish.
I bought a mixture of 3mm, 4mm and 6mm to try out and doubled the 3mm and put single pieces of 4mm and 6mm. At my normal bullseye schedule, it come out just looking tac fused, going hotter was only slightly more rounded and then I went too hot and it spiked. I after a nice rounded edge really and I am struggling to get the balance right!!
I will try the lower temperature and longer soak again!
Is there anyone here who can do me some 2cm Square clear glass cabs as a favour until I get this firing schedule sorted out?
I need 20 in total.
Ok the last firing was getting close, slightly rounder, but still some corner spiking. Any suggestions? A lower temp and longer soak??
I can help. What do you need? If its straight clear nice rounded edges but still keeping the square then I can do some for you this weekend.
PM and I will pick it up today or tomorrow. I may have some crystal clear bullseye somewhere. Ill have a look, but I reckon standard 3mm would be ok.
Is there a 100% need for total bubble free for the squares? I normally have bubble free glass when I fuse.
Actually Ill send my phone number via PM if you want a chat.
Ok the saga goes on!! I found some info and and fused at 900C and although not perfect, it is very nearly there!!!
I can't believe it needed to get soo hot!
I have a tweaked firing in now and will let you know later!! ::)
well the 6mm was fab!! But I only bought a bit of that!! The 3mm was doubled and it had devitrification on the top!!
Another batch in again now and keeping all crossed that it comes up trumps and works!