can anyone out there actually get this stuff to do anything useful? and what's the secret? (if you're willing to share it )
Not got any, sorry..... ???
Its ages since I used it, but it is nice glass. How you treat it depends on whether you have striking or reducing glass, but I used to find the reducing ones reduced easily. The strikers were a bit harder, and I think the other thing that may help with the striking ones might be to heat till soupy and kind-of clear, cool and then give a quick reduce before warming to strike. But I could be very wrong! :D
I got Jupiter and Golden Emerald ... tips will be VERY gratefully received! ;D
Strikers - heat, cool, reduce then strike, huh?
Don't quote me!!!!
I've just got a feeling there are glasses which do need this - poss. Mountain Honey and Juno being examples?
I didn't quote you Emma, I think you call it paraphrasing :D :D
i swore at mine for ages but then worked out ... Dont work it like DH !! you do not need to cool it to reduce it, just make the bead the shape you want then turn the oxy down and reduce it without cooling first
edited to say this is for the reduction glasses not the striking ones !! Taxco certainly works this way, cant remember the others i have but will check the labels
HTH
QuoteI think you call it paraphrasing
...or putting in a better way! ;D ;D ;D
...Golden Emerald should reduce as easily as Taxco, but Jupiter needs to be cooked really hot, and cooled until there is no glow on it, before striking. Then, strike very, very gingerly, it colours up dead quick, and overstrikes ( back to almost rod colour) v. easily. So, if you haven't struck it enough - it's green. Oh, and, if you strike it too much - it's green.
Dalai Lama & Tibet - heat, cool, reduce a bit, strike. Again, it's easy to overstrike them, leaving you with the impression that you haven't accomplished anything....
Sean
Sean, the bit where you say "strike very gingerly" - do you just mean "heat"?
No, I mean heat, very carefully, in small doses. Flash the bead in the very back of the flame, at the feathery bit, in-and out, check, in-and-out, check, etc. Some of these glasses really don't need much more heat, once you've got the dark 'pre-strike' phase, if you see what I mean.
Sean
Thanks Sean, lovely explanation, I'm off ........... ;D
Well I think I tried all those methods and still get grey/green (read sludge) from Jupiter :(
I did get some colour from dalai lama and I'm going to try that again next time I get to the torch but Jupiter has gone back in the box ???
i have managed to get poo from an originally clear rod of zeus :D
Quote from: dinah46 on April 29, 2009, 05:35:08 PM
Well I think I tried all those methods and still get grey/green (read sludge) from Jupiter :(
I did get some colour from dalai lama and I'm going to try that again next time I get to the torch but Jupiter has gone back in the box ???
Try heating the Jupiter to WhiteHotDrippy on the rod, then cooling a little, and applying to the bead. Then, cool and strike as usual. The strike is very sensitive, and easy to overdo.
Sean
wow, so many responses, and I'm not getting notifications through!
will attempt to put all suggestions to use, I have no expectations of any useful results. TAG swap anyone?!!!
New versions of Jupiter now available, along with 'Tasting Notes':
TAG post here (http://www.frit-happens.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=12767.0)
Sean