Cubic zirconia

[Beadmaker]

I'm just wondering where to get cubic zirconias from that are comparable with lamp work beads and how to go about it, haven't been making glass beads long so pretty new to the scene I've mastered the shape and certain designs and just wanted to try something else, be very grateful for any help 

[Lakelady]

I get mine from ebay - never had a problem with these 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390500414908?var=660099845059&ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

[ajda]

Those look good to me - anything that's a genuine cz should be fine with 104 glass. I've had a few problems with larger ones embedded in the surface of beads cracking on cooling, which might be due to the pressure of the glass shrinking around them...? I've not tried them in borosilicate, because I heard they are not compatible, though I've not looked into why that should be.

[Beadmaker]

Thanks for the help folks and the link for ebay, think I'm going to give it a go

[Mars]

Ooh I'm glad you asked the question as it's something I've wondered about too!

What size do people usually use, or is that a bit like how long is a piece of string? 

Mars

[Lakelady]

I use 1.5mm and 2mm...I have tried 3mm too with no problems but I would be more careful with these. 

[Mars]

Thanks, think the first lot I ordered are too big; but have now ordered some smaller ones!

Any top tips? Am a total newbie but love to jump in and have a go 

[ajda]

Any top tips? Am a total newbie but love to jump in and have a go 

The great thing about CZs is that they are cheap. I say jump in and experiment - the worst that can happen is a few failed beads and a few lost CZs... Try them on the surface (I've got particularly nice effects by etching the bead afterwards) and try encasing them under a blob of clear - my preference is for Effetre 006 clear - to see what different effects you get. They may be easier to place accurately if you file off the tip of a cocktail stick so it's flat-ended, then use a tiny dab of glue to attach to the flat face of the CZ, the "table", which is the top - you can then stick it onto the bead exactly where you want it (and the right way up) and the glue will simply burn off in the flame. Or if you want to really bling it up in a random way, lay a load of them (table down) on a graphite marver and roll the hot bead over them to pick them up, almost as you would with frit.

[mel]

Save any bent mandrels then flatten off one end, I think I filed mine. Dab the flat end onto a pritt stick type glue and pick up a CZ on the end of it. The cz have a flat side (which is the side which should face outwards on your bead) and a pointy side. So pick up the cz, sticking the mandrel end to the flat side, nice and even. Do loads of them at a time and store upright in a cup or something! then when you want to use one, spot heat the bead and poke your prepared CZ in. You will see how far to poke, its just a sensible poke or you'll bury the CZ. The glue burns off, the CZ sticks, pointy end in and your mandrel comes out clean.

To test it wont drop out, after annealing get a ball of blue tack and press onto the CZ and pull off. Your CZ should stay in place. I usually use 2mm CZ and tend not to encase them. If it pulls out, then you need to poke them in a little bit more.

I always prepare my CZ pokers under a good lamp as its a bit fiddly.

[Mars]

Ooh fab tips! 

I have quite a few wooden skewers lying around (as I customised a bead box a while ago and still have several left overs)

I also use them to apply glue to rivets for BHB... one day I may actually skewer some food and use them on a Barbeque as the supermarket originally intended - I was wondering how people got them into a perfect position if not doing random patterns!

Another question, my kiln is not in action (see thread on rogue controllers lol) so is it best to wait until I can anneal them, will they survive cooling bubbles only? If they do survive cooling bubbles only, can I stick them in on a batch anneal later?

I love this forum!