Talk to me about sheds

[DementedMagpie]

I have decided that this is all going to change:



There are two sheds in this photo: the obvious one is the larger of the two, but that thing to the left of it that's covered in peeling paint is the corner of another shed. It's less than half the size of the big one, and it's a surprise it's there at all, given how old and rotten it is.

I'm going to knock the lot of 'em down and replace them with one big shed. It will have windows that open, and enough room for my lampwork set-up and my nearest'n'dearest's gardening stuff, and I shall paint it a silly colour. There's even a place about a mile away that sells quite a variety of flat-pack sheds, so that part looks promising. 

I have never been in charge of a garden, let alone garden buildings, so if for those among you who use sheds as studios can help with the following, it would be much appreciated:

1) What on earth is supposed to go underneath it? Do I have to get concrete foundations done? I've seen lots normal garden sheds which are just propped up on bricks (incl. my current one), but I'm going to have some heavy kit in there, and I have no idea if shed floors can stand this sort of thing without sagging. Which isn't ideal when you want your kiln to be level.
At the moment, the ground over there is covered with concrete paving slabs, and the shed is likely to be about 2m by 4m, perhaps a little smaller.

2) While we're on the subject of floors, does covering it with something that's a bit more difficult to set on fire than wooden planks seem like a good idea? What have you got on your floor, and how's that working for you?

3) The shed's likely to be in a corner, right up against the fence, so, once it's up, I'm not going to have access to the exterior surface of two of the walls. I understand there's various stuff available that you can paint on sheds & fences that makes them rot slower. Any recommendations?

[Lynnybobs]

Hi Kathy,

I have a little knowledge of sheds - for the base all that is needed is a hard, flat surface, if the paving slabs are big enough for the base of the new shed, in good condition and level (most important!) then they would do fine.
Usually then you put some 'batons' or lengths of treated timber under the base of the shed  at intervals (some have them in built so you need to check) so that the wooden floor is raised slightly off the base (only needs to be about an inch) to ensure that air can circulate so the floor does not rot.
My shed floor is currently just wood and although has a couple of singe marks from dropped rods is fine. Not sure if some floor coverings might inhibit the air circulation and cause it to rot quicker but I'm sure someone who knows more about these things will be able to advise?
As for the exterior, again it depends how your new shed is made, some are made from pre-treated timber that doesn't need painting so that might be an option.
Mine is painted with an outdoor paint for wood that I bought from B&Q think its called Garden Shades or something like that. It was painted 2 years ago and still looks great though will probably need a re-paint next summer to spruce it up - the windows and doors are picked out in white which have gone a bit discoloured but the rest is a soft greyish green which has stayed good.
Good luck with your project - very exciting !

[DementedMagpie]

Lengths of treated timber, huh. Yes, I see how this would work - same kind of idea as wood floorboards, I'll just have to get the intervals right. I do believe the shed company supplies them, too. Thank you!

[Moira HFG]

I see you have big trees nearby....bear in mind that they will suck water out of the soil in summer, so the ground may move a bit. You'll want a base that will stay flat and level despite that.

[flame n fuse]

if you want it to last, the base should be poured concrete or well-laid slabs. You might get away with blocks/bricks around the perimeter and across in a couple of directions (opposite to the floor joists) , with gravel in between the rows. Check with a spirit level. If it ends up wonky you could use wedges beneath the kiln to level it out. Our garage floor is poured concrete, but dips in the middle (builder claimed it was within the regs). We have to wedge the kiln.

[DementedMagpie]

I probably have enough concrete slabs around the garden (which will in any case get removed and replaced with more garden), so if using them is a viable option, that would be ideal. I do have a shiny new spirit level, too.

[Blue Box Studio]

Depending on the size, the concrete or slab base needs to perfectly level.  My 14' studio (bigger timbers than a shed so should be more sturdy) is in 2 pieces and although the base looked to be completely level and it sits on 4" posts my studio is starting to come apart in the middle   We had this sited and built for us, I use a lot of filler but as a result the door has now dropped so hard to lock.  A one piece build should be better.   My small studio floor is OSB board painted with garage floor paint (what I had at the time) and easily stands up to the rain soaked garden and dropped hot glass etc.  The big studio has a thick (allegedly waterproof) board floor, with 'lino' covering, and has a marked trail where I mostly walk.  Don't skimp, these things settle over a year or two.  I put my kiln on a trolley because it evened out the bumpy floor, which seems to work.