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Lori and Kim
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Author Topic: Nice holes in beads  (Read 1531 times)
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crissi
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« on: March 14, 2012, 07:36:16 AM »

I just cant seem to get the holes right i always have rough edges everyting starts off well what do i have to do? what do i do to get the ends to come back in nicely and form a a smooth hole Please Heeeellp the beads themselves are turning out ok im getting there its just the ends/holes  Embarrassed
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Les
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« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2012, 09:29:29 AM »

It sounds to me as though your initial 'footprint', or first wraps of glass might be a bit woo wide ? I always try to keep my first wraps of glass quite narrow, then build the layers up tall (like a wheel), before melting them all in together.

HTH ?
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Yellow friend
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« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2012, 09:40:34 AM »

Hi Crissi
Firstly do what Les suggested but if it still goes a bit thin at the ends,tilt the mandrel up 45 degrees and melt the end bit of glass(keep twirling) until the glass starts to move, take out of the heat and keep rolling till it cools a bit, this should give you a bit of a pucker, then attend to the other end if it requires adjusting. Try to avoid getting the flame at the ends when puckered albeit keep wafting to stop cracking.

Shelia
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jammie
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« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2012, 09:43:21 AM »

Do what Les and Sheila said and make sure the mandrels level when you start, I constantly have to adjust mine to level as I seem to have a natural tilt!  Roll Eyes
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Les
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« Reply #4 on: March 14, 2012, 09:45:48 AM »

Yep ... if the mandrel isn't quite horizontal, you'll find that you get one lovely pucker at one end, and a sharp one at the other ... a bit like a pear shape, if you see what I mean ? Smiley
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ScarletLeonard
or Scarlett, or Scarlette
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« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2012, 11:46:05 AM »

When I make a footprint I put a little glass on the mandrel then gently marver it so I have my base (add glass and marver again for larger beads) then I add a wrap of glass to each end of my footprint tube slightly overlapping the edge of the footprint but not touching the madrel and build up the middle. Melt the whole lot in and the ends just suck themselves in.

But yes a perfectly sraight mandrel is needed. Doesn't mateer how you add it if you are a little wonky. I don't go for the full 45 degrees if an end goes astray I tend to rock the glass gently to where I want it.
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Blue Box Studio
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« Reply #6 on: March 14, 2012, 06:46:37 PM »

I struggled with level until I put a mirror on the wall in front of me.  Now I can see when I'm holding the mandrel off horizontal (and spot who's waving at the window to get my attention).  Otherwise, what they say - these are wise masters.
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crissi
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« Reply #7 on: March 15, 2012, 08:43:47 AM »

Thank you so much ladies for the info

maybe it is the mandrel the left side of the bead seems ok it does tend to be the right side that has a  sharp end
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silkworm
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« Reply #8 on: March 15, 2012, 09:31:22 AM »

I'm really glad Crissi asked this because I have a problem with this too and I really appreciate all the tips.
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Mary
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« Reply #9 on: March 15, 2012, 10:00:06 AM »

And when you have the glass really moulten, turn your mandrel slowly keeping it horizontal- let gravity shape your bead round.
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Fessler Forge
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« Reply #10 on: March 15, 2012, 10:54:47 AM »

When I started working soft glass I learned level was important. Because I had problems with it, I took a level and drew several lines on the wall in front of my work space. They are in my line of sight while working. It made for a nice quick visual reference point and helped me a lot. Now I think it's just muscle memory keeping it level.

~Scott
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