DeVilbiss poorly, suspect overheating *pics on how to reach fan*

Kalorlo · November 12, 2011, 10:04:49 PM

My oxycon is playing up

I've emailed Martin, but figured I'd put something here.

Last Sunday I'd been using it for 3 hours when suddenly the oxygen flow stopped completely, low oxygen light on and ball on 0. I was finishing then anyway so stopped and left it alone for a bit.

Today was the next time I used it - it started off with the oxygen level at 2.5 to 3, which is lower, but was enough to use. The service light was on for a while, then the ball went up to the normal level and there were no warning lights on. After it'd been on for an hour in total, it suddenly shut off again the same as before. I left it switched off for 5 mins, tried switching on and both lights were green but the ball was on 0 and nothing seemed to be happening. It felt hot around the air filter and below, so I left it switched off.

I was thinking it might be a fan problem as it seems to be overheating: I opened it and took a picture.

The grey insulating stuff is going crumbly and gooey in places, and it was all rather hot. I found out from here that the fan is under the motor: some of the grey stuff has definitely fallen down into it, but I wasn't sure how to get to the fan so have left it at that for the moment until I hear back.

firedinglass · November 13, 2011, 08:34:31 AM

You sound as if you know more about it than I do but what about the filters,are they OK?

awrylemming · November 13, 2011, 09:35:01 AM

Have you checked the hose? Silly question probably, but that's what was wrong when mine did similar, just had to cut an inch away, reconnect and voila. You've probably already done this though ...

Kalorlo · November 13, 2011, 12:17:47 PM

The outer filter is fine - not sure how to tell with the little one in the box... The hose is a bit hard to tell, because it's mostly tidied away behind things where you can't see it. It's transparent green hose and doesn't seem brittle or anything, though.

awrylemming · November 13, 2011, 01:06:38 PM

Nor did mine, but Martin told me to cut away about an inch then reattach and it was fine - it only takes a hairline crack. I think this tends to be his try before anything else thing anyway, so probably worth doing even if that's not the problem. x

Kalorlo · November 13, 2011, 01:27:49 PM

This may be a stupid question, but an inch from where? This is what I can see on each side...

Or did you mean the outer hose?

awrylemming · November 13, 2011, 04:25:57 PM

Sorry to take so long, I've been baking ... it's the outer hose on the front. Try the torch end of the hose first. Undo the clip, cut away around an inch, reconnect and test. If no improvement, try the end on the oxycon, same drill. Martin will probably get you to do this anyway, before any further steps are taken. Good luck, hope this fixes the problem. Sounds exactly the same as what happened with mine though, so fingers crossed.

Kalorlo · November 16, 2011, 09:27:55 AM

Does anyone know how to safely remove the motor so I can get to the fan? I've emailed Martin twice and PMed him and Emma on here, with no reply yet. I can't test anything else until I get the stuff out of the fan.

Anyone?

Kalorlo · November 16, 2011, 11:05:15 AM

I've gots instructions

I'll put photos on here as I go in case they help anyone else, because it sounds a tad complicated.

awrylemming · November 16, 2011, 01:10:44 PM

Urghh, hate complicated. Good luck with fixing it, hope it is relatively straightforward.

fionaess · November 18, 2011, 04:37:38 PM

Quote from: Kalorlo on November 16, 2011, 11:05:15 AM
I've gots instructions

I'll put photos on here as I go in case they help anyone else, because it sounds a tad complicated.

Brilliant idea - I love fixing things

... I really do

Kalorlo · November 20, 2011, 12:19:46 AM

It's working!

I got the compressor out of the way and didn't have the right screwdriver to remove the fan entirely (it needs a Torx or 6-pointed star one) but that did let me get the pieces of foam out of it. The fan is deeper than I thought so not sure how much they were actually affecting it. I put it together again but left the back off for a very short time so I could check that the fan was actually running when I switched it on - yup, all fine.

I also did what Sue suggested and redid the connection at the torch. Then ran it properly: all was fine with lights and flow rate, and I had it going for 2hrs tonight with no problems while I made test beads. The back of the oxycon got nowhere near as hot as it did the time it cut out, just slightly warm.

Fingers crossed it'll all stay fine!

Will add the photos later.

Madam Steph · November 20, 2011, 12:35:22 AM

Glad you're up and running again, Heather

Linda x

awrylemming · November 20, 2011, 07:20:54 AM

Yay - bet you feel pleased with yourself, I know I would

Kalorlo · November 30, 2011, 10:15:42 AM

Right, after a little delay, here are the piccies!

We shall begin after having taken off the front and back parts of the case (there are screws in the handle in the top, on either side, and I think on the bottom as well - didn't note that part!). You just need a flathead screwdriver for those.

Since the fan is under the compressor, you have to take the compressor out. First of all, on the front there are two recessed hex nuts that hold it in:

You need a tool to undo these. I got a 3/8in drive metric socket set (from Argos, as it was open when I needed them and the set was about £11.99 on sale). You want the 10mm socket - the set comes with a bunch of different sized sockets, a couple of extender arms, the T handle and a ratcheting handle too, so now I can undo these in all directions! The pieces click together, so here I've used the 10mm socket, the longer extension arm and the T handle. Makes undoing and redoing the hex nuts easy peasy.

I didn't know which size I needed, which was another reason to get a full set - you can get them cheaper from Amazon, and also look for tap back nut spanners or box wrenches as they're the same kind of thing. You basically need a hexagonal end on a long body.

Next, look at the back of the oxycon. There are a few things to undo here.
1. A jubilee clip attaching a hose to the compressor.
2. Two screws holding down the steel plate the compressor has as a base.
3. The compressor's wiring connector.

A flathead screwdriver will do for the jubilee clip and the screws, and the wiring connector just pulls apart: one half is slotted into the other.

The compressor's still connected to a hose at the back - I didn't know how to undo that one so just left it connected. There's enough give to lift and swivel the compressor out and put it on something level with the oxycon (I used the toolbox the socket set came in). Now it's out of the way and you can see the fan!

The fan is screwed in with 6-pointed star screws. I don't have a screwdriver that can do these, so didn't actually take it out. I could however pull the pieces of foam that had fallen in it out through the gaps with a pair of long needlenose pliers. (I think the stars may be 5mm point to point. I measured it but can't remember if I wrote it down).

I'd taken out some of the more falling-to-pieces foam from inside the case as I went - it's for soundproofing rather than anything more important. Then I reattached everything, leaving the case back off temporarily so I could run it for a minute and be able to see that the fan was going. It was, so I put the case back on too.

There we go!

Like I said, it may not have been the fan that was the problem in this case, but it did have foam in it and the oxycon isn't overheating anymore. And if I ever have to replace the fan, I know how to now!