Sharp edges on fused dichroic

Started by Trudi, December 29, 2009, 12:55:12 PM

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Trudi

I've been having a play fusing dichroic glass (dichro side up) and I've found that there are a few (very small) sharp edges. Any suggestions on the best way to avoid this please. Do I need to fire slightly higher or longer - or a bit of both?

Thanks

Trudi x

bluefairy

#1
Are they like little tiny spikes at the corners?  If so, it may have overfired, you might need to turn it down a couple of degrees x
Helen xx

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Zeldazog

Other thing could be, how thick was the glass you were firing Trudi?

Trudi

Ohh I never thought it was overfired - but yes it is at the corners. When you say down a few degrees, should I try 5? And is there anything I can do with the bits I have now (Perhaps fuse some clear over the top?)

This was one of the dichroic's I was using - I'd need to measure it, but I'd say it was a generous 3mm - and I fused it on a 2mm glass.

And thanks for the replies!  ;)

noora

The glass will strive to become about 6 mm thick if you do full fuse. If you have less glass than that you'll risk sharp edges, especially with dichro side up. The dichro layer on top will prevent the glass from "balling up" properly, causing the sharp edges. I usually put clear (or slightly tinted transparent) glass on top of dichro to prevent the sharp edges when I do full fuse, or have several layers of glass underneath so that the total thickness is at least 6 mm. Tack fuse usually works better, but you can get sharp edges on tack fused dichro if it is too thin and you fuse too warm or too long.

If you want to rescue the pieces you've fused you can add a layer of clear on top or another layer of glass underneath. Consider it an experiment that you can learn from :) That's how I've learned... I took a class in glass fusing before I started, but the teacher more or less said that the "glass behaves in unexpected ways" and I think she actually believed that. While in fact the glass is fairly predictable but in a complex way. I've had to figure it out all on my own and I still get surprises now and then...

Trudi

Ok thanks for that. I fired a few pieces at the same time - and in fairness there was different dichro on each piece - but what I did fine was that the dichro on a transparent base didn't seem to get the sharp edges.

I will re-fire with some clear on top I think. I originally decided to try the dichro side up - uncovered as there were so many ripples that I didn't want to trap air bubbles (when I tried it with clear and had smaller pieces of clear either side  - my pendant went a little dog bone shaped, still looked nice).

Going forward, if I try again, would I do better to fuse at a slightly lower temp, or am I better off either adding a layer underneath or over?

Thanks again!

Trudi

dinah46

You could also try taking off the sharp edges (grinder or just wet and dry, used wet) and then fire polish. I frequently shape my pendants after the initial fuse to get a neater shape and then fire polish.

Zeldazog

Quote from: dinah46 on December 30, 2009, 01:20:12 PM
You could also try taking off the sharp edges (grinder or just wet and dry, used wet) and then fire polish. I frequently shape my pendants after the initial fuse to get a neater shape and then fire polish.

Me too Di, I've made full use of the flat lap!